Hi Warren



Ok interesting comments. Yes, they lifted that ground on the heater middle connection between the 2 tubes, and ran a
black wire down to the plate mA meter - see diagram again.

Also updated the drawing, as they put 0.01 Capacitors to ground where that connection to gnd was.The meter already had
one, plus the terminal they used had C105 already there so you have (4) caps in parallel across the meter. Not sure if they are figuring cathode resistor bypass cap(s)?

While I was in there saw one of the terminals the control grid goes to on one tube was not soldered, and was really loose
so fixed that.

C10 was an original Sangamo molded mica, 2500WV / 5KV max. It was mounted inside the fan compartment, so maybe they thought the heat on the tube sockets would shorten its life and they went overkill?

I like using a doorknob for it. Yes way overkill but since this is no longer factory plate voltage and is AB1, I rather have higher rated in case of a catastrophe.

Yes its neat to ponder the 160m mod while I am in there. Today while tearing up an old desktop pc for parts, found a nice
metal bracket they used I think for shielding that fits way better than my other and is stronger.



Can easily fit 6 or more doorknob caps on it plus the octal relay in case I can do the 160m mod later.
The one doorknob in the lower right corner near the bottom is dry fitted on the bracket that held the string
of bad molded mica output coupling caps. I can mount 2 there at 500pF and make a new C10 of 0.001uF
as original. Turns out it goes right to the huge neutralizing cap thats very close by, so thats a great spot for it.

I read neutralization was rarely needed on the Tbolts, but as I am into new territory here, would be worth looking into
and try to avoid the parasitics.