Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 37 of 37

Thread: The TS-530/830 mod and upgrade thread

  1. #31
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Rewire the 530 Antenna relay

    In the TS-530 series, the Antenna Relay's Receive (NC) contact is routed straight to the front-panel Attenuator control through a length of Miniax cable. The '830 intercepts this line at the X.VTER connector and provides a means to switch the RX input to an external signal source.

    Shown is a portion of the '830 schematic. An additional run of Miniax (sourced from a discarded wiring harness, or from an electronic supply house) is added to the '530's Antenna relay after the existing connection at its NC (RX) terminal is de-soldered:

    RL1-Rewire.jpg

    Modifications to the socket connections of RL1 in the PA Compartment are shown. Once it's de-soldered, pull the line from the RF ATT connection out of the PA Compartment wiring and route it to the area between the EXT VFO and REMOTE connectors...where the new Xverter connector will be installed. Measure a length of Miniax to run between RL1 and the spot for the X.VTER connector - allowing an inch or two excess - then dress and prep the ends (braid and shield) per Kenwood practice. Connect center and shield to the points indicated on RL1's socket, then - following the original cable routing path - pull the Miniax through the chassis cutouts, along the rear wiring harness and to the X.VTER connector spot. Make sure none of the cables can come into contact with the final tubes or any moving parts (such as the band switch).

    PA-RL1-Details.jpg

    The surplus harnesses I obtained had a couple of runs of exactly the right length.
    Last edited by N8YX; 08-01-2018 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Additional info, formatting
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

  2. #32
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Wire the Screen Grid switch

    As previously noted, the TS-530 Screen Grid switch was wired directly into the Screen Grid supply. This component has been removed and the rest of the modifications to allow for remote switching of Screen Grid voltage will be covered.

    A look at the '830 implementation is shown. In the "OFF" position, the "SGS" terminal on the Rectifier Unit is grounded - thereby allowing Rectifier Unit relay RL1 (not shown) to energize and supply a negative voltage to the PA tube screen grids. When the SG switch is set to "ON" (and the relay de-energized), positive voltage from the 210V supply is routed to the Rectifier Unit PD2 terminal, and from there to the screen grids of the PA tubes. Should an attached transverter bring Pin 4 of the X.VTER connector to ground, the relay will also energize, apply negative screen voltage and prevent the PA tubes from amplifying.

    SG-Switch.jpg

    Remove the wires currently on the Screen Grid switch and add a 12" length of yellow, orange and black solid-conductor #20 wire (salvaged from a junked wiring harness or supplied from your junk box) to the switch as shown:

    New-Wires.jpg

    Kenwood's convention is to tie both poles of the switch together with these wires, so dress and solder them accordingly. Mount the switch so that the black wire is farthest away from the main power transformer. Next, route the black wire to the chassis ground nearest the main transformer...it has a pair of disc capacitors from the primary windings attached to it. Solder the wire to the ground point:

    SG-Ground.jpg

    Route the yellow wire along the back of the chassis and to the blank area where the X.VTER connector will be installed. Route the orange wire along the bundle which goes to the Rectifier Unit, trim and dress it then wire-wrap it to the "SGS" terminal (indicated by the orange and black arrow). I added a bit of solder to ensure a secure connection:

    SG-Wiring-2.jpg

    Lastly, connect a wire from the "12" terminal (yellow and black arrow) to a source of +12v. I chose to route the wire to Pin 8 of the EXT VFO connector. In the TS-530 series there's a white/red stripe wire attached to this terminal, which is itself right next to switch "S21" - an integral part of the connector.
    Last edited by N8YX; 08-01-2018 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Grammar
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

  3. #33
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Check the "PD2" terminal output and wire the Screen Grid circuit

    After all switch and Rectifier Unit modifications are complete and the assemblies fastened to the chassis, it's time to check the operation of the Screen Grid voltage supply. Ensure that the PA tube plate caps and suppressors cannot come in contact with any part of the chassis, then temporarily install the PA Compartment shield. Ensure that no loose wiring in the (future) X.VTER receptacle area can contact the chassis or other circuit components. Connect a DC voltmeter to the "PD2" pin (indicated by yellow arrow below), plug the rig into AC power and turn the Screen Grid (SG) and Power switches ON.

    PD2-Check.jpg

    In all modes besides TUNE, you should measure ~210VDC. Rotate the Mode switch to TUNE; the reading should be 100 to 110VDC. Next, turn the SG Switch OFF and observe the voltmeter: ~ -110VDC in all modes except TUNE and -50 to -65VDC while in TUNE.

    If all checks out, turn the Power switch OFF then unplug the rig and allow the MV/HV supplies to bleed down. Short the "PD2" terminal to ground to ensure the filter capacitors have discharged. Obtain and connect a length of #18 solid conductor wire between terminal "PD2" on the Rectifier Unit and terminal "SG" on the PA Unit board. Kenwood's convention for this conductor in the TS-830 series was white w/ violet stripe; given that none of the scrap harnesses I had on-hand bore a suitable piece of that color scheme, I used what was available:

    SG-Wiring-3.jpg
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

  4. #34
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Wire the '530's new X.VTER Connector

    Reference the marked-up Service Manual screen shot and picture below for details on how to wire the connector. The one I attained surplus had the Miniax line to the RF Unit intact (including the TD plug), and the various wire jumpers (indicated on the screen shot) were also present. These will serve as a guide in making the rest of the connections.

    The easiest way to wire the connector is to do so with it outside the chassis, with the exception of the wire which runs between Pin 2 and Pin 2 of the EXT VFO connector. Make all other connections first, attach the X.VTER connector to the rear bulkhead with its two small screws then make the Pin 2 - Pin 2 connection.

    XVTER-Jack-Wiring.jpg

    XVTER-Jack-Wiring-2.jpg

    Once everything is secure, test the receiver function - making sure that the RX signal path (now run through the X.VTER switch) is complete and allows HF reception when no plug is inserted in the X.VTER connector.

    The TS-830S User Manual has details of the function of each X.VTER connector pin...but the "X-verter ON-OFF control" description is a bit vague. Bringing this line to ground (when powering up an attached transverter, as an example) will activate RL1 on the Rectifier Unit, thereby removing Screen Grid voltage from the PA tubes. The Driver tube will still provide 10M drive energy, but the rig's PA won't amplify.

    Note: There is no filtering on the "Transverter Output" line - either in the stock '830 or the modified '530. It's strongly suggested that a suitable low-pass filter be constructed and placed somewhere between RF Unit J10 and the transverter drive input point.

    Assuming all checks out...unplug the rig, discharge the plate choke then replace the PA tubes in their sockets and attach their plate caps. Other PA circuit mods and neutralization plus balanced modulator adjustment to follow.
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

  5. #35
    Administrator KD8TUT's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Lake Michigan Beach MI
    Posts
    1,759
    Thanks for posting this... it's a great read.
    --
    So there I was, totally naked. With only a rubber hose and a stuffed animal...

  6. #36
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Quote Originally Posted by KD8TUT View Post
    Thanks for posting this... it's a great read.
    Lots more to come!

    I got word from the Kenwood Hybrids Reflector that Ken (K4EAA) has some health problems, and his wife Barb and son are filling parts orders as they get them. They thank everyone for the continuing patronage. I'm going to order more shaft couplers and 1N6263s in the next few days.
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

  7. #37
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    25,124
    Tip #9 - PA Tube longevity, performance improvements

    Another bit from the AG6K 'Circuit Improvements' page. Rationale is that the 6146s are being run at a slightly high filament voltage, and over time the (overheated) cathodes lose their barium coating...which sticks to the screen grids and causes secondary emissions when a load is put on the tubes. This has the effect of reducing power output as the key is held down.

    The fix is simple. A pack of 3-position, end-lug terminal strips were obtained from an online vendor - as were several 0.51 ohm, 2w metal film resistors. The mounting lug was flattened and this allows the strip to be attached to one of the existing Final Unit mounting screws. The resistor was then mounted in the two lug-attachment crimp holes after having its leads bent for adequate clearance.

    Kenwood ran a wire from the Heater switch to the "H" terminal of the Final Unit, and a wire which supplies filament voltage to the RF Unit's Driver Tube is also connected to this point. Both were removed and attached to the input side of the resistor. Next, a bit of the solder mask surrounding the "H" pin was scraped away and extra solder flowed onto the area - giving additional mechanical support for the pin. A wire is run from this pin and attached to the output side of the resistor, and the strip then fastened into place using the existing screw. The yellow/white 'IPM' (metering) wire was routed to clear the resistor:

    PA-Fil-Power-Mod.jpg

    I left the Driver Tube filament power as-is and installed new PA tubes plus a new Driver Tube in the course of this project. Although long key-down operations aren't anticipated (except in the case of the AM conversions which will follow), the Driver Tube performance will be monitored over time and the filament power wire re-routed if needed. One of the other rigs I'm working with will have its Driver Tube filament power dropped through the resistor as a control test.

    A note about the asterisk: Always tidy up after yourself. In the case of these modifications, you're going to do a lot of tie-wrap cutting to get at various conductors in the stock wiring harnesses...and you'll need to add new wires into the bundles. Those harnesses need securing - via ties - when done. The correct (OEM) size is a 1.8mm wide tie; most commonly available ones are 2.5mm or larger. An eBay store had a 1000-ct bag of Huada brand 1.8x60mm ties for $10 - more than enough to do every hybrid in one's collection. A new tie is shown in the picture, after the new 'XAL' wire from the AF Unit joined the bundle.
    "Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •