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Thread: Today's vintage equipment rant

  1. #1
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
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    Today's vintage equipment rant

    Analog VFOs with clutch-style, ball bearing reduction drives are THE SUCK when the OEM grease dries out and they get "notchy".

    Anyone who's ever owned an older TS- series Kenwood hybrid, FT/FR/FL series Yaesu from the mid-70s-early 80s and a number of other models from assorted manufacturers knows exactly what I'm talking about.

    It's never simple to get the damn thing out of its radio, either - and rebuilding in place is "challenging", to put it mildly.

    Two Hole (sic) Daze (sic) spent on the #*^{#ing project and I finally got the tuning smooth enough to work properly.

    Disassemble the clutch bearing race, bearings, tuning shaft and tensioner springs, carefully clean everything (including stationary race and bearing holder) with brake cleaner on a Q-Tip. Use a toothpick to finish the cleaning process. Reassemble with no lube and moderately snug the race tensioner nut, then rotate the tuning shaft while checking for grittiness and proper function.

    If all looks good...remove the race tensioner nut, springs (if used) and outer race. Then squirt a little Bel-Ray, Spectro One or similar "no fling" chain lube onto the ball bearing area. Use a clean toothpick and pack a little Slick 50 "One Grease" between the bearing balls in the stationary race then install the outer race, tensioner nut and springs. Slowly tighten tensioner until side-to-side shaft play disappears then check for smoothness throughout the tuning range.

    That lubrication mixture and procedure cured my FR-101's VFO of a major mechanical glitch. Figured someone else might benefit from it.
    Last edited by N8YX; 11-12-2016 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Grammar
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  2. #2
    Pope Carlo l NQ6U's Avatar
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    Had the same issue with my Drake 4-line gear. PITA, for sure.
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    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K6BSO View Post
    Had the same issue with my Drake 4-line gear. PITA, for sure.
    I bought about $500 worth of N4YG's DDS VFO kits (board, PIC and DDS chip; u-build-the-rest) when he had them for sale for the express purpose of converting 4x R7, 2x TR7 and 2x TR5 to synthesized tuning. Those are on my to-do list in the next year or so.

    Joe's kits would also work in the 4-line series equipment. I hope someone follows in his footsteps and continues offering similar kits.
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  4. #4
    Master Navigator K4PIH's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input. I have an old FT-101EE and several Swan's that need the procedure. On my to-do list over the coming holidays.
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  5. #5
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
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    Bear in mind the gear manufacturerss who used this kind of tuning arrangement in their equipment spec'd a "friction grease" for lubricating the ball drives. It allows the balls to grip the tuning shaft while still rolling smoothly.

    If anyone can find a commercial P/N for the stuff, post it here. My formulation was the result of a bit of experimenting. How well it ages (i.e., doesn't dry out like the OEM grease) remains to be seen.
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  6. #6
    Whacker Knot WØTKX's Avatar
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    Tri-Flo synthetic grease seems to be a winner.

    http://www.wb4hfn.com/

    Not sure if red or clear is better.
    Last edited by WØTKX; 11-14-2016 at 02:53 PM.
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  7. #7
    Administrator N8YX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WØTKX View Post
    Tri-Flo synthetic grease seems to be a winner.

    http://www.wb4hfn.com/

    Not sure if red or clear is better.
    Noted, and I think Summit Racing/DX Engineering (right up the road from me) carries the stuff.
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  8. #8
    Orca Whisperer
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    Quote Originally Posted by N8YX View Post
    ...It allows the balls to grip the tuning shaft ...
    You said balls grip the shaft, lol

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    "Usual Suspect" WZ7U's Avatar
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    heee hee hee

    Like that post was...
    Moving on, my posts are not helpful

  10. #10
    Tribal Warrior AA1OH's Avatar
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    Try working on a 80+ year old National PMW (?) dial/drive. The ones they used on the HRO/NC-100/101. There goes a weekend of fun!
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