Fitted front panel switch and overload circuit breaker
And wired in the amplifier for first full 50V test ... eeek
...everything was OK though. Tried some RF and got 500W out of it for about 10w in, 1200W drawn at the socket. Was expecting more out for 10w and better efficiency, but hey its early days and my power meters are not known good.
Last edited by mw0uzo; 08-01-2012 at 01:09 PM.
Turns out my high power meter reads low, output on 30/40m is 600W+, other bands excluding 10m ~550W. Capacitor value mod across transformer primary required for 10m operation.
But...it ain't go no knobs on it!
All the world’s a stage, but obviously the play is unrehearsed and everybody is ad-libbing his lines. Maybe that’s why it’s hard to tell if we’re living in a tragedy or a farce.
You're right, there won't be any knobs on it at all, just an LCD display, pushbuttons and a few LEDs. F*CKOriginally Posted by KJ6BSO
Last edited by mw0uzo; 08-05-2012 at 07:52 PM.
Will a random wheel on the front do, or am I gonna have to start again?
That's thee minimum, even if it just controls the light of the display...
I love the SB-1000 large knobs plate, load, band, PWR, STdby Multimeter knobs...
Look at the Ft-2000 D with all its knobs, a dream come true here , KNOBS heaven ;)
"If the Republicans will stop telling lies about the Democrats, we will stop
telling the truth about them." - Adlai Stevenson (1900-1965)
“I’m not liberal/conservative, I’m anti-idiotarian.”
At some point in the last 20 years, the left moved to the center, and the right moved into a mental institution
That's the ticket—a pair of knobs labeled "Plate" and "Load." Use a couple of old junque box pots or something. Everyone knows that a real radio has to have knobs; however, I do not think there's a requirement that they actually do anything.
All the world’s a stage, but obviously the play is unrehearsed and everybody is ad-libbing his lines. Maybe that’s why it’s hard to tell if we’re living in a tragedy or a farce.
Hell, just Velcro them on. No holes, and you just pop them off to adjust the plate and load, then put them back on. Simple? Why, yes I am.
A clear conscience is usually a sign of a bad memory
RIP ALBI-W3MIV RIP RUSS-W5RB RIP BOB-VK3ZL
Mechanical construction of attenuator board. Board consists of 8 way standard relay board purchased from ebay. Underneath is a board of copper clad and mounted to that a heatsink for the attenuator resistors. Attenuators will be for 10W, 25W, 50W and 100W in.
I am likely to use the same construction for the LPFs with two further relay boards. I will have four relays left, two will be kept spare in case of addition of 6m operation, the other two will be the RX and TX switching relays. They're rated at 10A, 250V AC. I really don't know if they'll be good enough for use with such high power RF. But everywhere I look RF amps are getting away with tiny relays.
Last edited by mw0uzo; 08-05-2012 at 04:35 PM.
That's some nice work. If the overall concept could be adopted to the 6, 2, 1.25M and 75cm bands with an input power of 10-15w PEP and an output of 500w or so, I know just the shack which could use a few sets of those boots.
"Everyone wants to be an AM Gangsta until it's time to start doing AM Gangsta shit."
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