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View Full Version : how do I break a stuck screw and other questions



W5BRM
08-19-2009, 07:21 PM
I am having a tough time breaking a tough small screw on my ICOM IC T2H. Its the small black screw on bottom left side. it has a bit of either rust or something on it and it wont come free. I am using a jewlers screwdriver but that darn thing is way too small for my sausage fingers. I put a drop of vinegar on it to see if that might break it but so far no good. Don't have any breaking oil either. I stopped trying before totally stripping the head out whic would screw me totally

I want to look inside the radio. I won it at a hamfest back in '01 on the day I got my general ticket. It took a tumble about 6 moths later and quit working. I put it away and it got shuffled about during the several moves since then. I want to see about getting it open to see if I caan figure out if its a broken board or something else. I doubt I will get it working again but I figure I might as well take a look to see if it's something obvious.

Any advice?

thanks

KG4CGC
08-19-2009, 07:23 PM
You'll need a fatter screwdriver that fits, is about all I can offer. Jeweler's screwdrivers are hard on the hands.

ad4mg
08-19-2009, 09:02 PM
Honestly, and I know from experience, a top dollar screwdriver will bite harder and is less likely to strip the head out. A Snap-On phillips-head of the proper size should do the trick, especially if you have a buddy who has the complete set of Snap-On Precision screwdrivers. I have a set, and they've saved my bacon many times.

And, if you can find a can of "PB Blaster" penetrating oil:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/101077_front500.jpg

That stuff is the real deal ...

KB3LAZ
08-19-2009, 09:20 PM
Honestly, and I know from experience, a top dollar screwdriver will bite harder and is less likely to strip the head out. A Snap-On phillips-head of the proper size should do the trick, especially if you have a buddy who has the complete set of Snap-On Precision screwdrivers. I have a set, and they've saved my bacon many times.

And, if you can find a can of "PB Blaster" penetrating oil:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/101077_front500.jpg

That stuff is the real deal ...

Works on frozen (I mean literally) carabiners.

ad4mg
08-19-2009, 09:26 PM
Do you prefer your carabiners anodized, or polished? :rofl:

KG4CGC
08-19-2009, 09:27 PM
Do you prefer your carabiners anodized, or polished? :rofl:
Frosted and knurled.

WTKX
08-19-2009, 09:28 PM
Do you prefer your carabiners anodized, or polished? :rofl:

Knobbly!

W5BRM
08-19-2009, 09:30 PM
OK Cool thanks guys. I willl try to find a bigger screwdriver. Only problem is the screw is sunk in the fram so I dont know if a standard size screwdriver will fit. Them screws is itty bitty things! I'll see if I can find some of that breaker stuff. gotta be careful though, I'm out of work and dont have a lot of disposable income anymore..lol

KB3LAZ
08-19-2009, 09:55 PM
Do you prefer your carabiners anodized, or polished? :rofl:

I don't get it.

HUGH
08-20-2009, 02:06 AM
Drill a tiny hole in it if your sausage fingers will allow, using a mini-drill. Some of these tiny screws are case-hardened but I shouldn't think it will apply here.

N8YX
08-20-2009, 07:47 AM
There is a type of Phillips driver which has serrated edges on its flats for a better grip. Sears sells them, and I'm pretty sure that Snap-On and Mac/Matco do as well...

k9yli
08-31-2009, 04:22 PM
use a gas pliers or if you dont have one a water pump pliers.
grab the jewlers screwdriver with it onb as shallow an angle as you can to give maximum down ward pressure.
the the trick... give the pliers a SHARP twist.. the sudden snap should break the screw loose. I have done this many times on printers, fax machines, dictation equip. radios,..
effectivly its a 'one shot' impact wrench.
The gas pliers helps as its jaw is rounded on the end too. where a water pump pliers is flat on the jaw.
if you look at the end of a gas pliers ,it looks like someone drilled a hole down the end plane.
a water pump pliers ,looking at the end , is just two flat planes.
water pump pliers is the basic, generic, farmer inthe pants pocket pliers.

w2amr
09-28-2009, 02:09 PM
Honestly, and I know from experience, a top dollar screwdriver will bite harder and is less likely to strip the head out. A Snap-On phillips-head of the proper size should do the trick, especially if you have a buddy who has the complete set of Snap-On Precision screwdrivers. I have a set, and they've saved my bacon many times.

And, if you can find a can of "PB Blaster" penetrating oil:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/101077_front500.jpg

That stuff is the real deal ...

Works on frozen (I mean literally) carabiners.
Yeah, but does it come in strawberry flavor?
:drool

N5RLR
09-29-2009, 03:50 AM
How does PB Blaster work on ~15-year-old exhaust-manifold fasteners that probably haven't been popped loose since the car they're on was built? I may have a need... :think

N9MXX
09-29-2009, 10:18 AM
That is exactly what the stuff was designed for! If PBB can't break it loose, your next option is breaking or cutting! I'd soak them down the night before you need to wrench on them and let the oil soak into the threads, but I have had really good luck with that stuff... It seems to just dissolve rust.

AE1PT
10-09-2009, 08:13 PM
For radio work, it is always a good investment when buying quality bench tools. Several companies make very nice multi-bit jewelers sets that go on a single shaft that is designed for applying a little more downward force and horizontal torque.

A standard trick is to place a driver bit that properly fits into the screw into the head, and gently tap the bit a few times. This can also be done with a single unit screwdriver. The tapping will loosen various oxides in the threads--and at the same time improving the seating of the bit by reforming the cross of the head. Then attempt to remove the screw.

Worst case analysis is that you wring off the head, and end up drilling out the hole or finding a new way to secure that part of the case...

AF6LJ
10-10-2009, 10:39 AM
Honestly, and I know from experience, a top dollar screwdriver will bite harder and is less likely to strip the head out. A Snap-On phillips-head of the proper size should do the trick, especially if you have a buddy who has the complete set of Snap-On Precision screwdrivers. I have a set, and they've saved my bacon many times.

And, if you can find a can of "PB Blaster" penetrating oil:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/101077_front500.jpg

That stuff is the real deal ...
I second both recommendations, That penitrating oil is the Bee's Knees.

Nothing beats a good set of Snap-On screwdrivers. :)
Best money I have spent on tools.

AF6LJ
10-10-2009, 10:46 AM
OK Cool thanks guys. I willl try to find a bigger screwdriver. Only problem is the screw is sunk in the fram so I dont know if a standard size screwdriver will fit. Them screws is itty bitty things! I'll see if I can find some of that breaker stuff. gotta be careful though, I'm out of work and dont have a lot of disposable income anymore..lol
Make your choices carefully, you only get one shot at success.
I have seen techs twist off screws holding power transistor flanges in place because they believed in BFFI.
Bruit
Force &
F*(king
Ignorance.

The same guys also make crappy dates.

ka3trx
11-15-2009, 02:32 AM
For what it's worth - a drop of tincture of iodine will often loosen rusty bolts or nuts. Just put a drop or so on, let it soak ovrnight, then try it. This has worked for me using the dark iodine. Haven't tried it with the clear iodine.

kb2crk
11-15-2009, 04:01 PM
pb blaster is good but kroil or aerokroil put it to shame. another trick it to try to ever so slightly tighten them. this will break loose any threadlocker that might be on them.