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[kc7jty]

CORRECTION!
aFTER THINKING IT OVER i THINK YOU ARE 25% OFF
If your speedometer was accurate with the 2.73 rear you are 25% off.

3.73 - 25% = 2.79

40 + 25% = 50
55 + 25% = 68.75

maybe one of our math wizards can explain...

[w2amr]

CORRECTION!
aFTER THINKING IT OVER i THINK YOU ARE 25% OFF
If your speedometer was accurate with the 2.73 rear you are 25% off.

3.73 - 25% = 2.79

40 + 25% = 50
55 + 25% = 68.75

maybe one of our math wizards can explain...I never checked it with other ring and pinion. But considering those big tires in the back, it probably wasn't right on the money before.

[KG4CGC]

The big tires alone can throw it off by 2 miles per hour at 40 mph.
At least that's what I learned in a Billy Jack movie in 1974.

[NQ6U]

It's a conspiracy between the Tri-Lateral Commission, The UN, The Masons, Big Auto Companies and the Police to make you get lots of speeding tickets! The Police give the Auto Companies a kickback for every fine that's paid! Once everyone has gotten lots of tickets and can't pay the fines, the World Government will come and arrest us all and take our guns! Then the UN will move in the Mexicans and Canadians! We'll all be eating tacos with maple syrup on them! LISTEN TO ME!!!

[kf0rt]

CORRECTION!
aFTER THINKING IT OVER i THINK YOU ARE 25% OFF
If your speedometer was accurate with the 2.73 rear you are 25% off.

3.73 - 25% = 2.79

40 + 25% = 50
55 + 25% = 68.75

maybe one of our math wizards can explain...

Both are right. It's a matter of perspective: are you low and looking high, or high and looking low?

40 increased by 25% is 50, but 50 reduced by 20% is 40. Your math is on target in both cases, Bill.

[kc7jty]

Both are right. It's a matter of perspective: are you low and looking high, or high and looking low?

40 increased by 25% is 50, but 50 reduced by 20% is 40. Your math is on target in both cases, Bill.

It's not the math but the correct formula we're after. I believe the percentage should be derived from the ORIGINAL value, hence, if the speedometer is correct for the 2.73 rear, and it was replaced with a 3.73 we get 36.63% difference. This high percentage however, does not correlate with George's sets of speeds.

A good way at this point (I don't know how accurate GPS is) would be to pace with a car with a known accurate speedometer.

If the GPS speeds ARE accurate it doesn't really matter if the original speeds were correct for the 2.73. In this case using 25% would probably be very close to correcting the now incorrect readings.
At any rate you are going to need a bigger gear on the insertable pickup unit and/or a smaller gear inside the tranny.

[w2amr]

It's not the math but the correct formula we're after. I believe the percentage should be derived from the ORIGINAL value, hence, if the speedometer is correct for the 2.73 rear, and it was replaced with a 3.73 we get 36.63% difference. This high percentage however, does not correlate with George's sets of speeds.

A good way at this point (I don't know how accurate GPS is) would be to pace with a car with a known accurate speedometer.

If the GPS speeds ARE accurate it doesn't really matter if the original speeds were correct for the 2.73. In this case using 25% would probably be very close to correcting the now incorrect readings.
At any rate you are going to need a bigger gear on the insertable pickup unit and/or a smaller gear inside the tranny.If I can fix it by replacing the gear for the end of the speedo cable fine. But there's no way I'm going to pull the rear housing off of the trans to replace the other gear. I'll just leave it the way it is.

[w2amr]

Last week I thought I heard a rapping noise when I started the engine cold. After a few minutes it went away. Then on Monday I started it and the rapping was really loud. This time it stayed till the engine warmed up. Now I'm scare shitless. Although The oil pressure was fine, and it didn't sound like a rod. Time to try and isolate it. I loosened both drive belts to rule out the water pump, Alt, and P/S pump. No change. So I put the car up on jack stands , started it up cold, then went over the bottom of the engine and trans with my mechanics stethoscope while it was running. When I listened at the dust cover on the front of the trans, under the torque converter , it got really loud. I pulled the cover off and sure enough the plastic was chewed up where it was rubbing against the ring gear. The way I see it, When the plastic was cold it would rub the flex plate. When things warmed up the plastic would expand bending it away , and the noise would stop.
Sherlock frickin Holmes, Aaaaaaa.3543

[KG4CGC]

Last week I thought I heard a rapping noise when I started the engine cold. After a few minutes it went away. Then on Monday I started it and the rapping was really loud. This time it stayed till the engine warmed up. Now I'm scare shitless. Although The oil pressure was fine, and it didn't sound like a rod. Time to try and isolate it. I loosened both drive belts to rule out the water pump, Alt, and P/S pump. No change. So I put the car up on jack stands , started it up cold, then went over the bottom of the engine and trans with my mechanics stethoscope while it was running. When I listened at the dust cover on the front of the trans, under the torque converter , it got really loud. I pulled the cover off and sure enough the plastic was chewed up where it was rubbing against the ring gear. The way I see it, When the plastic was cold it would rub the flex plate. When things warmed up the plastic would expand bending it away , and the noise would stop.
Sherlock frickin Holmes, Aaaaaaa.3543
I love finding things quick. Been down the tried everything route too. Yuck.

[kc7jty]

no biggie, good news.

[w2amr]

no biggie, good news.You have no idea, I'm so happy it wasn't anything serious. Repro parts will getcha from time to time.

[kc7jty]

Just stay away from cast zinc pistons and you'll be OK.

[w2amr]

Just stay away from cast zinc pistons and you'll be OK.:lol: I'll keep that in mind.

[w2amr]

I have never been thrilled with the idle on this engine, it always seems a bit on the lean side. And the idle mixture screws never really did much of anything. After doing some poking around on the Internet I think I may have found my problem and solution. My cams duration is 234 degrees intake, 244 exhaust. So if I drill out the idle discharge ports to 0.093 I should be in business.


Chevy Truck Magazine
This is an insert from an article on Q-jet Tuning Tips that appeared in the January 2000 issue. The holes in the baseplate where the idle mixture screws are located are called the idle discharge ports. These ports, together with the mixture screws, control how much fuel enters the engine at idle and won't need alteration with a stock engine. However, once the engine is modified with a bigger cam, these ports often need to be enlarged to avoid a lean miss at idle. Stock ports are usually 0.050-0.081 inch, and Murphy (Sean Murphy from Jet Performance Fuel Systems) says they can be enlarged up to 0.093 inch, according to engine needs (anything beyond .0093 inch, and you start losing idle-adjustment capability). Although application needs vary, Murphy recommends 0.081-0.086 inch for cams with 204 to 210 degrees of duration at 0.050, 0.086-0.089 for cams between 210 and 216 degrees of duration, and a maximum of 0.093 for cams above 216 degrees of duration. Big-block engines have different recommended specs.

I read the above insert in the article. My CompCams XE268H cam has 224 degrees of intake duration, so I said why not. I checked the holes and found out they were .088 inch. So I gathered up the nerve and drilled them out to 0.093 inch. Worked like a charm. Now I have adjustment with the screws. Before drilling them bigger, I could turn the screws all the way in and not affect the idle. I had to turn them out about 4 to 5 turns to achieve a decent idle mixture. I highly recommend you giving this a try if you have no adjustment with the idle mixture screws. Just for the heck of it, I checked the holes in the old stock Q-jet that I had removed and found out these were, get ready for this, 0.055 inch. That's right, no wonder we can't get a decent idle after we change cams.

[kc7jty]

No chit! Might have been good advice for me in 1969 when I put a Z/28 solid lifter cam into a '68 327 with a QJ. That thing idled like pure crap.
The next year was the 350 cu in with Edelbrock manifold, Crane (327/350hp) solid lifter and HOLLEY carb.

I can remember the wait for the secondaries to start doing their thing after I floored the pedal on the QJ. Aren't they fully choked requiring the vacuum to open the choke plates?

[w2amr]

No chit! Might have been good advice for me in 1969 when I put a Z/28 solid lifter cam into a '68 327 with a QJ. That thing idled like pure crap.
The next year was the 350 cu in with Edelbrock manifold, Crane (327/350hp) solid lifter and HOLLEY carb.

I can remember the wait for the secondaries to start doing their thing after I floored the pedal on the QJ. Aren't they fully choked requiring the vacuum to open the choke plates?Mine has an electric choke with a vacuum pull off. You adjust the choke spring so the choke plates are just closed when the engine is cold. Then when you start the engine cold, the pull off opens the choke just enough that the engine isn't drowning in fuel . The secondary throttle plates are linkage operated.

[kc7jty]

I meant the secondaries being covered with choke plates. The vacuum opens them when the throttle is opened and gets the fuel to squirt until the plates are fully opened.

What did you have on your tunnel ram? Twin 650 holleys? That was pretty standard for the BB 427 Chevy back then.

[w2amr]

I meant the secondaries being covered with choke plates. The vacuum opens them when the throttle is opened and gets the fuel to squirt until the plates are fully opened.

What did you have on your tunnel ram? Twin 650 holleys? That was pretty standard for the BB 427 Chevy back then. And each one had it's own fuel pump.

[w2amr]

Finally got around to finishing the rear. New hardened axels, wheel bearings, oil seals, wheel studs. Now I should be able to light em up without breaking anything.:cool2:

[ad4mg]

Finally got around to finishing the rear. New hardened axels, wheel bearings, oil seals, wheel studs. Now I should be able to light em up without breaking anything.:cool2:
OMG! Not with the current price of tires ...

[kc7jty]

not to mention gazo.

[w2amr]

Noticed a large puddle of ATF under the car last month. It seemed to be coming from the pan gasket. So I drained the trans, pulled the pan and replaced the paper gasket with a rubber one. Road test , no leaks. Three days later another another puddle, and I haven't even been driving it. Long story short, when the car is parked, the fluid in torque converter slowly drains back into the transmission causing an over full condition. Then it was leaking past the broken o-ring where the kick down cable goes into the transmission. I replaced the o-ring and it still leaked. So I took it apart one more time, cleaned everything, then put on a new O-ring and ran a bead of RTV silicone around it . The leak finally stopped. What a PITA

[KG4CGC]

PITA indeed! Well, FBOM on the diagnosis and repair.

[W5GA]

Serious PITA. Glad you nailed it!

[kc7jty]

350 turbo?

[w2amr]

350 turbo?Yup. I still wish it was a 4 speed car.:mrgreen:

[W5GA]

Yup. I still wish it was a 4 speed car.:mrgreen:
All it takes is money!

[w2amr]

All it takes is money!....that I don't have.:lol:

[kc7jty]

as you once said:
The 4 speeds have all been trashed by people like us.
Get cha a 5 sp overdrive.

[w2amr]

I plan to enter the car in a local show this summer. The Corvette rally wheels on it are in great shape, but the trim rings and center caps are not. I was able to buy new trim rings and caps for about $200. Money well spent, what a difference.
8658

[KB3LAZ]

A friend of mine had a beautiful SS that was a banana yellow color. He also had a blue one that was a bit plain. (His daily driver) Both second gen. Sadly a fire took them both out. Chevelle's are one of my favorite cars but I prefer first gen.

[w2amr]

A friend of mine had a beautiful SS that was a banana yellow color. He also had a blue one that was a bit plain. (His daily driver) Both second gen. Sadly a fire took them both out. Chevelle's are one of my favorite cars but I prefer first gen.
A garage fire?

[w2amr]

The exhaust system on the car has flowmaster mufflers, but only 1 7/8" ID tail pipes. I just bought this 2 1/2" kit from Summit, with super 40 series mufflers . This should help it breath better.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-17119/overview/

[ad4mg]

The exhaust system on the car has flowmaster mufflers, but only 1 7/8" ID tail pipes. I just bought this 2 1/2" kit from Summit, with super 40 series mufflers . This should help it breath better.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-17119/overview/

George - I did custom exhaust work back in the 80's. I found that it is possible to oversize the exhaust system. I had a fellow with a C-10 Chevy with a 350 in it who was an avid fisherman who pulled his 19' bass boat behind this truck. He came in and asked about having dual exhaust put on it, and I suggested to him that 2-1/4" pipe from the header collectors, with a 1-1/2" crossover pipe welded in just behind the collectors, with 2" tailpipes would strike a nice balance. He insisted on 2-1/2" pipe, no crossover, all the way back (tailpipes exiting in front of the wheels). I suggested that the pipe was too large, and that he may suffer a loss of low end torque as a result, but he insisted on the big pipes.

After the duals were put on it, he complained that he was having a terrible time pulling the boat and trailer up the ramps. I reminded him what I had suggested, but he scoffed at the idea. I then told him I would put the suggested system on the truck, but since he now wanted tailpipes exiting behind the wheels, I suggested 2-1/4" all the way back. I then told him that if he didn't see improvement in the low end, I would refund his money for the suggested system and put the big pipe back on it. He came back a week later and said there was a noticeable improvement in the low end torque with the new system, and that pulling that 19' bass boat up the ramp was much easier.

I had always suggested 2-1/4" exhaust pipes on small block engines, and if the tailpipes had the 'over the axle' bends, they should also be 2-1/4", otherwise, I suggested 2" (for pickups with the tailpipes exiting in front of the wheels). You could always add a couple of big-assed tips at the ends of the pipes for aesthetics.

If you will, pay particular attention to your low end torque after you put the big pipe on the car. Also, I'm curious if you'll have an "H" pipe in front of the mufflers... that helps with low end torque. I always suggested that equalizer pipe between the front exhaust pipes, most people bought into that, some didn't. Of course, a stock smallblock engine with factory manifolds would dictate 2" pipe all the way back. Since the connection at the manifold was 2", I saw little advantage in bigger pipe.

Let me know how the before & after works for you, particularly on the low end.

[KB3LAZ]

A garage fire?

Missed this post last go around, yes a garage fire. The fire started in the attached apartment.

[w2amr]

George - I did custom exhaust work back in the 80's. I found that it is possible to oversize the exhaust system. I had a fellow with a C-10 Chevy with a 350 in it who was an avid fisherman who pulled his 19' bass boat behind this truck. He came in and asked about having dual exhaust put on it, and I suggested to him that 2-1/4" pipe from the header collectors, with a 1-1/2" crossover pipe welded in just behind the collectors, with 2" tailpipes would strike a nice balance. He insisted on 2-1/2" pipe, no crossover, all the way back (tailpipes exiting in front of the wheels). I suggested that the pipe was too large, and that he may suffer a loss of low end torque as a result, but he insisted on the big pipes.

After the duals were put on it, he complained that he was having a terrible time pulling the boat and trailer up the ramps. I reminded him what I had suggested, but he scoffed at the idea. I then told him I would put the suggested system on the truck, but since he now wanted tailpipes exiting behind the wheels, I suggested 2-1/4" all the way back. I then told him that if he didn't see improvement in the low end, I would refund his money for the suggested system and put the big pipe back on it. He came back a week later and said there was a noticeable improvement in the low end torque with the new system, and that pulling that 19' bass boat up the ramp was much easier.

I had always suggested 2-1/4" exhaust pipes on small block engines, and if the tailpipes had the 'over the axle' bends, they should also be 2-1/4", otherwise, I suggested 2" (for pickups with the tailpipes exiting in front of the wheels). You could always add a couple of big-assed tips at the ends of the pipes for aesthetics.

If you will, pay particular attention to your low end torque after you put the big pipe on the car. Also, I'm curious if you'll have an "H" pipe in front of the mufflers... that helps with low end torque. I always suggested that equalizer pipe between the front exhaust pipes, most people bought into that, some didn't. Of course, a stock smallblock engine with factory manifolds would dictate 2" pipe all the way back. Since the connection at the manifold was 2", I saw little advantage in bigger pipe.

Let me know how the before & after works for you, particularly on the low end.
Interesting Luke. I was tempted to go with the 3" system, but I thought it would really kill the bottom end torque, and lean the motor big time. Yes, the kit includes an H pipe ahead of the mufflers. It also give you the choice of straight or turned down tips.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/FLO-17119_xl.jpg
I'll let you know how it works out.

[w2amr]

Got the new exhaust system on and it sounds amazing. Still have plenty of low end torque, and overall the engine actually runs better. The bitch be breathing now.8)

[KG4CGC]

Pics and video please.

[WX7P]

Flowmaster. Conceived and abused in Santa Rosa, CA.

For every classic Chevy in town, there are 5 lowered CRXs or 90's Nissans with peashooter motors making a lot of noise.

[K7SGJ]

Flowmaster. Conceived and abused in Santa Rosa, CA.

For every classic Chevy in town, there are 5 lowered CRXs or 90's Nissans with peashooter motors making a lot of noise.

That shit always cracks me up. Some young kid with a POS rice burner, automatic, with some kind of cheap-shit tuned exhaust system, over revving the engine, and trying to jump off the line at a light. A lot of noise, blue smoke exhaust, with the engine past redline still in first gear, car bucking, belts squealing, and the little bastid thinks HE'S cool, and the machine is hot. Which, if you consider overheating, I suppose it is.

[NA4BH]

The one thing you just don't see anymore is a good pair of fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror.

[WA7PBE]

my wife would never let me have anything that cool :(

[W7XF]

my wife would never let me have anything that cool :(

She already has you in a minivan?? :yuck:

[K7SGJ]

The one thing you just don't see anymore is a good pair of fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror.

Something tells me George does.

[NA4BH]

The hell you say

[WA7PBE]

worse jeep compass...

[KG4CGC]

She already has you in a minivan?? :yuck:

Chip and a laptop and every Sunday is race day at the track. Ever see a Chrysler Town & Country burn front wheel rubber and run the quarter in 13/9?

[WX7P]

That shit always cracks me up. Some young kid with a POS rice burner, automatic, with some kind of cheap-shit tuned exhaust system, over revving the engine, and trying to jump off the line at a light. A lot of noise, blue smoke exhaust, with the engine past redline still in first gear, car bucking, belts squealing, and the little bastid thinks HE'S cool, and the machine is hot. Which, if you consider overheating, I suppose it is.

Bingo, Rata. 100% dead on!

[wa6mhz]

I permanenty damaged the Dodge 318 I rebuilt when I installed the headers on it. I couldn' get them over the studs so I removed studs and put them on with bolts. I was later told that that was very bad move as the studs go into the water jacket and now the bolts will never come out as they will rust up. I didn't know that, but not a problem as the Van is now in the JUNKYARD!

[WØTKX]

Fear the Miata! (http://youtu.be/maCiOakOThM)


http://youtu.be/maCiOakOThM

[NA4BH]

A bear in his natural habitat

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0Oh6AC_iQU/TiN8Wcp-_WI/AAAAAAAABGI/dFq9VRqFTvo/s1600/sidekicks%2B01.jpg

[K7SGJ]

A bear in his natural habitat

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0Oh6AC_iQU/TiN8Wcp-_WI/AAAAAAAABGI/dFq9VRqFTvo/s1600/sidekicks%2B01.jpg


He's probably trying to get to the woods.

[NA4BH]

Are you implying that bears...............

[NQ6U]

Are you implying that bears...............

Yes.

BTW, I'm Catholic.

—Da Pope

[w2amr]

Pics and video please.First chance I get

[w2amr]

Something tells me George does.Ha!

[N2NH]

Ha!

Sounds non-committal.

I gotta say George, this is one ambitious project and one of the most interesting threads I've seen on the Internet. :yes:

I know I'm learning a lot.

[w2amr]

I permanenty damaged the Dodge 318 I rebuilt when I installed the headers on it. I couldn' get them over the studs so I removed studs and put them on with bolts. I was later told that that was very bad move as the studs go into the water jacket and now the bolts will never come out as they will rust up. I didn't know that, but not a problem as the Van is now in the JUNKYARD!I didn't know that, but then I'm not a mopar guy. Sounds like some really bad engineering.

[w2amr]

Sounds non-committal.

I gotta say George, this is one ambitious project and one of the most interesting threads I've seen on the Internet. :yes:

I know I'm learning a lot.Tnx John. I had a lot of fun with this thread. The restoration was hard work, but well worth it. The old girl is a blast to drive.

[w2amr]

New 3" stainless exhaust tips.
12147

[ad4mg]

Looks good, but...

those clamps at the end of the line need to be rotated 180° so you don't see the saddle of the clamp. Tack welding the tips to the pipe is also an option, but I'm kinda anal because I did custom exhaust work for 8 years... :-D

No stock tips?
12155

;)

I'm glad you didn't lose the low end, the engine must have good compression!

[w2amr]

Looks good, but...

those clamps at the end of the line need to be rotated 180° so you don't see the saddle of the clamp. Tack welding the tips to the pipe is also an option, but I'm kinda anal because I did custom exhaust work for 8 years... :-D

No stock tips?
12155

;)

I'm glad you didn't lose the low end, the engine must have good compression!
Those clamps hold the rear hangers to the pipe. I tried rotating the clamps but the saddle won't grasp the hangers tight enought. Maybe a different set of hangers are in order. The engine has ten and a half to ones, so compression isn't a problem. Hummm, those stock type tips do look good. Now you tell me.:mrgreen:

[ad4mg]

Those clamps hold the rear hangers to the pipe. I tried rotating the clamps but the saddle won't grasp the hangers tight enought. Maybe a different set of hangers are in order. The engine has ten and a half to ones, so compression isn't a problem. Hummm, those stock type tips do look good. Now you tell me.:mrgreen:

Are they OEM hangers? They have a nice hunk of flat metal, 'broke' to the same radius as the pipes so they lay nice and flat on the pipe.

12157
The bottom pieces, of course, are usually rolled down to rest on the top of the TP. There should be tapped holes in the frame on both sides to bolt these to, even if it didn't have duals from the factory.

If they are universal hangers, you can probably roll the clamps 90° and still get a good bite.

Man, I used to love piping up mid-sized GM's with headers. I'd bend the pipes, get everything lined up just right (with new OEM hangers at the rear of mufflers) and weld the entire system. I would put clamps on (saddle on top) and tack weld the saddle to the pipe, then spot-weld the tips. Took about 90 minutes, and in 1984 I was charging $265 for the job, complete.

Universal hangers are for pickup trucks, BTW... :lol: