Car Question

[KG4CGC]

Any reason why I can't spray cleaner in it while it's running with the intake hose removed and a hand on the throttle?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGXR_KaKWJk


Thanks and Gracias.

[NA4BH]

What are you planning to spray in it?

On edit:

If you use a cleaner like the one in the video, you shouldn't have a problem. Just have someone that can rev up the engine while you spray, you don't need to rev it high, just enough to keep it running. Don't over spray with each application. Should you kill the motor with the spray, it might be a chore to get it restarted. Find you a brush to "scrub" around the opening. With air flowing over the spray it will evaporate very fast, but you should be able to loosen the build up each time and after several sprays it should be clean. The main thing is to NOT kill the motor or you could be foqued. Foqued, I tell you...........

[KG4CGC]

What are you planning to spray in it?

Watch the video. Throttle body cleaner.
He does it with the motor shut off but says it's hard to start afterwards until the cleaner vaps out.

[NA4BH]

Read my edit.

[NA4BH]

There was no audio on the video, I figured he was a mime.

[NA4BH]

You might accidentally clean some carbon off of your valves with the spray.

[VE7DCW]

What are you planning to spray in it?

On edit:

If you use a cleaner like the one in the video, you shouldn't have a problem. Just have someone that can rev up the engine while you spray, you don't need to rev it high, just enough to keep it running. Don't over spray with each application. Should you kill the motor with the spray, it might be a chore to get it restarted. Find you a brush to "scrub" around the opening. With air flowing over the spray it will evaporate very fast, but you should be able to loosen the build up each time and after several sprays it should be clean. The main thing is to NOT kill the motor or you could be foqued. Foqued, I tell you........... I totally agree with this........ I have used plain old diesel fuel as a cleaner and have had fantastic results! ........of course the trick is to keep the revs up so it doesn't stall! You can use home furnace oil as well as it is very close as a substitute to diesel fuel.......actually works quite well :yes:

[NQ6U]

Don't do it. You could damage the muffler bearings.

[KG4CGC]

Well I wanted y'all to watch the video because the MAF sensor is out of the circuit in order to get to the opening and I would be wary of spraying that cleaner across the MAF sensor as another alternative to cleaning it.
Op ni ons?

[K4PIH]

Beck in my drag racing stage I used to slowly pour about 8 ounces of ATF down the carb with the revs up to keep it from stalling. Great for cleaning out carb gunk and valves.

It also got all the kids in the neighborhood riding their bicycles in and out of the fog. They thought it was the skeeter spray truck.

[KG4CGC]

For specific reference, the car in the video is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.5l V6. Mine is a 2005, same motor.
Something else of note, no distributor. Coil on each spark plug.

[NA4BH]

You're still good to go.

[KG4CGC]

Well shit. It's electronic. No cable.

[WZ7U]

Ha. Foiled by tech yet again. :snicker:

Best get the other half or a bud to goose the throttle for ya.

I'd come over but I don't have that much gas monkey. My apologies.


Yeah you should be good to go.

[KG4CGC]

Think that's something? Wait till you see how to change the spark plugs. :fever:

[NA4BH]

http://phisick.com/core/wp-content/uploads/obstetric-forceps-norie-1011.jpg
https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.oOToq15K8lx18g8b-mdNqQD5Db&pid=15.1&P=0&w=174&h=154
https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.OmZ6mRfq9iPTL8j5WksKGgEsDT&pid=15.1&P=0&w=220&h=156

Merely a guess

[KG4CGC]

Remove the intake manifold. The spark plugs are under it.

[WZ7U]

Good thing you like doing this sort of thing :spin:

[KG4CGC]

I'd rather George supervise it.

[WØTKX]

I remember Seafoam, but wouldn't use it anymore...

[WZ7U]

I've never used seafoam. What's it's dealio Dave?

[WØTKX]

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/


The Sea Foam Story Genesis Sea Foam was initially developed for the outboard motor and marine market back in the 1930s. The inventor, Fred Fandrei, owned an outboard motor and it seemed as though every time he went fishing he would have engine trouble. The problems always stemmed from the gas and oil mixture, which became gummy and formed varnish between uses. The thought of spending more time fishing than working on the motor prompted Fred, who was a District Manager for the Sinclair Refining Company at that time and had a good knowledge of fuel, to invent a product that would stop the gas/oil mixture from becoming stale. He worked with quite a few formulas before he finally found one that gave him the right results. His first test market was at Lake Freeman, in Indiana, near where he lived. When he went fishing, he would take along his formula in beer bottles and quart jars to sell to other fishermen. Initial Stages Inspired by the products popularity, Fred decided to give it a name and put it on the market. His search for a name ended when a fellow fisherman who had moved to Florida called him and asked him to send some of that “Sea Foam” stuff. Fred liked the sound of it, so he christened his formula Sea Foam. He began to advertise Sea Foam in such magazines as Field and Stream and Outdoor Life and as each order came in, he would affix a label to the product’s container and mail it out.

Evinrude Outboard Motor Co. heard about Sea Foam and tested it for a full year and endorsed it nationally. Another well-known outboard motor company, Martin Motors, endorsed the product nationally, after it solved a big problem in the poppet valves of their outboard motors. Sea Foam became trademarked in 1942. About this time, a new job as District Sales Manager for Maremont Automotive Product’s took the Fandrei family to Minneapolis. Here, the market shifted from marine to automotive and the product’s label was changed to read Sea Foam Auto Marine. Philip Fandrei, the son of Fred Fandrei bought his father out in 1981. Distribution had been confined to the Upper Midwest and since then the Company’s markets have been increased and distribution has been broadened nationally in the United States and in Canada. Philip Fandrei was the owner of the Sea Foam Company from 1981 until 1991 when Auto Mark, Inc., purchased the company. Auto Mark, Inc. was formerly Auto-Miles Warehouse of Minneapolis, headed by President Mark Hanson. After the sale of the Auto-Miles Warehouse, Mark became a member of the Sea Foam sales force for a short time. With many years experience he was highly qualified in the automotive aftermarket and more than capable of taking Sea Foam Products to the high status it has in the market place today.

As the new owner of the newly named Sea Foam Sales Co., Mark has successfully taken the Sea Foam products to be recognized as the safest and highest of quality products in the automotive aftermarket. Currently The Sea Foam Sales Company has the finest distribution for its products for the automotive aftermarket in the country. There are five major Sea Foam products – Sea Foam Motor Treatment, Sea Foam Spray, Sea Foam Hydra Trans Tune, Sea Foam Deep Creep and Sea Foam Bugs-B-Gone. Each of these products is a multi-use product and are of the highest quality. Each product meets or exceeds all government requirements in every state. Sea Foam has its own sales force and uses manufacturer representatives to solicit new distribution and market share nationally and internationally. The Sea Foam Sales Company is always doing research and development to keep up with industry standards and is always keeping an eye out for new innovative products to serve its Valued Customers!

http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vintagecan1.png

[WZ7U]

A-HA! So that's what it's all about. I only first heard of it last year. (I have a nice rock to hide under, btw) Sort of a mechanic in a can thing. I see how keeping varnish down would be OK in certain sub-systems in the engine.

I just wish something other than the rebuild I suspect needing to be done would stop my yl's chevy tranny from its intermittent slipping in first gear. I have a feeling my problem is electrical in nature, a lazy solenoid specifically but at nearly 200k I might as well rebuild (have rebuilt more likely) the unit. I doubt Sea Foam would fix that.

Thanks for the tutorial Dave. How's that, you schooling me on things mechanical. Wow. Cool.

[KG4CGC]

A-HA! So that's what it's all about. I only first heard of it last year. (I have a nice rock to hide under, btw) Sort of a mechanic in a can thing. I see how keeping varnish down would be OK in certain sub-systems in the engine.

I just wish something other than the rebuild I suspect needing to be done would stop my yl's chevy tranny from its intermittent slipping in first gear. I have a feeling my problem is electrical in nature, a lazy solenoid specifically but at nearly 200k I might as well rebuild (have rebuilt more likely) the unit. I doubt Sea Foam would fix that.

Thanks for the tutorial Dave. How's that, you schooling me on things mechanical. Wow. Cool.

https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/lucas-fluid-review/

http://transmissionrepairguy.com/lucas-transmission-fix-review/

[WZ7U]

I should try some. Lucas worked good for the engine out in the large car, (Detroit 60 series, 500hp) so I think their brand has integrity. I used some solvent based stuff last year and it seemed to help for a bit but now it's time to get that stuff out and try something else. The way it acts is like a sticky solenoid valve because manually putting the car in low causes it to work correctly every time. I just can't get the yl to remember that all the time, or when she does she gets in 2 which doesn't always address the issue. Sure, I think it's time to try something else.

Thanks for the heads up Charles. You're just full of good information tonight. Cool.

ILBT's

[WØTKX]

For must sludgy issues that are not in the intake areas, I have been using MArvel Mystery Oil. Mixed with regular fresh oil, then change it out quickly, with maybe one more "treatment.
However, since I have had vehicles with fuel injection for a long time "varnish" intake issues and whatnot have not been a problem. Folks that don't change their oil sludge up the rest.

When I buy a used vehicle, I'm pretty fussy about checking the vehicle out, and bring 'em in for a $100 go through by my favorite mechanics. And say no a lot.

Nowadays, it has been electrical sensors a real PITA. I'm pretty good at figuring that out. Filthy wires and connectors, 'effed up sensors, and the like.

[KG4CGC]

For must sludgy issues that are not in the intake areas, I have been using MArvel Mystery Oil. Mixed with regular fresh oil, then change it out quickly, with maybe one more "treatment.
However, since I have had vehicles with fuel injection for a long time "varnish" intake issues and whatnot have not been a problem. Folks that don't change their oil sludge up the rest.

When I buy a used vehicle, I'm pretty fussy about checking the vehicle out, and bring 'em in for a $100 go through by my favorite mechanics. And say no a lot.

Nowadays, it has been electrical sensors a real PITA. I'm pretty good at figuring that out. Filthy wires and connectors, 'effed up sensors, and the like.

Did a desludge yesterday. 2.5 quarts conventional oil, 2 quarts transmission fluid, half quart Marvelous Mysterious Oil. Drained oil but left old filter. Added mix, let run for 45 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Change filter and add new oil. Runs very smooth. Throttle body still needs a good clean.
Have a friend who is in charge of maintenance dept at a Honda deal. He said to look for secondary filter in front of the throttle body. Mine doesn't have one but that's what a lot of the newer cars have now.

[KG4CGC]

I should try some. Lucas worked good for the engine out in the large car, (Detroit 60 series, 500hp) so I think their brand has integrity. I used some solvent based stuff last year and it seemed to help for a bit but now it's time to get that stuff out and try something else. The way it acts is like a sticky solenoid valve because manually putting the car in low causes it to work correctly every time. I just can't get the yl to remember that all the time, or when she does she gets in 2 which doesn't always address the issue. Sure, I think it's time to try something else.

Thanks for the heads up Charles. You're just full of good information tonight. Cool.

ILBT's

I figure if you got 200K on it you probably don't have much to lose. Doing a full fluid and filter change is a crap shoot, 50/50 but if you do, add that Lucas stuff, could be good but again 50/50.
Just adding the Lucas is the easy route.

[WØTKX]

My wife's CRV recently freaked out and went into limp mode. Two secondary oil filters (screens actually) plugged up.
So it wouldn't go over 2600 rpm. Protection for the VTEC motor. That was... interesting.

Works great now. Replaced the screens. Previous owner sludged it up.
We used synthetic as soon as we got it. Yea, the sludge got loose.

It happens. :dunno:

[KG4CGC]

My wife's CRV recently freaked out and went into limp mode. Two secondary oil filters (screens actually) plugged up.
So it wouldn't go over 2600 rpm. Protection for the VTEC motor. That was... interesting.

Works great now. Replaced the screens. Previous owner sludged it up.
We used synthetic as soon as we got it. Yea, the sludge got loose.

It happens. :dunno:

Yeah? Check to see if it also has a secondary filter near the throttle body.

[KE6KA]

The only reason to use throttle body cleaner in modern vehicles if if the throttle body is sticking. The valve in them has a gap to let a small amount of air in at idle. Sometimes carbon and gummy deposits cause them to stick a little too far open, or reduces the gap and restricts air flow. Some throttle bodies have a coating on them, so you shouldn't use a cleaner that doesn't specifically state it is safe for newer vehicles. Also, it must also be MAF sensor safe. As far as I know, the engine should be off when cleaning the throttle body.

[KG4CGC]

The only reason to use throttle body cleaner in modern vehicles if if the throttle body is sticking. The valve in them has a gap to let a small amount of air in at idle. Sometimes carbon and gummy deposits cause them to stick a little too far open, or reduces the gap and restricts air flow. Some throttle bodies have a coating on them, so you shouldn't use a cleaner that doesn't specifically state it is safe for newer vehicles. Also, it must also be MAF sensor safe. As far as I know, the engine should be off when cleaning the throttle body.

The MAF sensor in video is on the intake tube about 6" before the throttle body. The intake tube is removed prior to spraying but you make a good point.
If I wasn't concerned or if it wasn't a problem with messing the sensor up, I'd spray clear through the whole intake tubing by just taking off the air filter cover.

[KG4CGC]

Of note, the front tires have been replaced. It had/has Firestone Destination LE on it. Great for trucks. Hard compound for heavy vehicles. Although some people call the Santa Fe an SUV, it's basically a shortened station wagon/hatchback hybrid sort of thing with 4 doors. With just the front replaced with Yokohamas my combined average gas mileage has already increased to 20.5 mpg so far. Keep in mind that figure includes the 10 or 15 already on the clock just before the tires were replaced.
Monday morning the struts and the whole complete assemblies from top to bottom are getting replaced. Going to give the card a couple of days to cool down and then get the rear tires replaced to match the front tires. Finally, after some sweet talking I'm going to replace the rear shocks. The right side is getting noisy. If you saw our roads here you'd know why.