Had my little car chiptuned today

[PA5COR]

Friend of mine chiptuned the Hyundai Atoz 1.0 i liter engine chip today.
833kilo's empty, 54 horsepower an 87 Nm for that engine normally went to 100 Nm and 64 H.P.
Should safe some fuel as well, now i have some reserve power when overtaking.
Max speed went up 10 Km/H but i normally drive never near that, 120 -130 is allowed here and i stick to that ( +- some )

9476

[KC2UGV]

Go to hell with your funny license plates :spit:

Seriously, what exactly is "chip tuned"? Only chip tune I know are those 8-bit game theme songs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiptune).

[N2CHX]

I gotta admit, I barely understood a word of that. To me it sounded like it got a tuneup to purposely induce worse gas mileage and horsepower and now it only goes 10 km/h.

[WX7P]

Friend of mine chiptuned the Hyundai Atoz 1.0 i liter engine chip today.
833kilo's empty, 54 horsepower an 87 Nm for that engine normally went to 100 Nm and 64 H.P.
Should safe some fuel as well, now i have some reserve power when overtaking.
Max speed went up 10 Km/H but i normally drive never near that, 120 -130 is allowed here and i stick to that ( +- some )

9476

What year is the Hyundai?

I think the nearest US equivalent is the Hyundai Excel, but I'm not sure.

How do you fit into that thing?

[KB3LAZ]

I gotta admit, I barely understood a word of that. To me it sounded like it got a tuneup to purposely induce worse gas mileage and horsepower and now it only goes 10 km/h.
He had the chip in the computer tuned. This increased both the horsepower and max speed by ten which will save him on fuel consumption. Sometimes a slight increase in HP will result in slightly better mpg. I dont know what NM is. The normal speed limit in his area is 120-130 klm/h (75-80 mph) and he normally goes the speed limit +- 5klm/h. He never takes the car to top speed.

[KB3LAZ]

What year is the Hyundai?

I think the nearest US equivalent is the Hyundai Excel, but I'm not sure.

How do you fit into that thing?

You think its hard for him to fit in that? You should see these little 49cc cars we have here. They are half the size of a smart car. I have a student that is 6 foot 8 and drives one to class daily. Quite amusing to say the least. Another interesting mode of transportation is the three wheeled electric cars we have here. A little 49cc scooter will run circles around them. I have to give it up to the people that drive them, they are braver than I. Many people here drive fast, aggressive, and reckless. I would be afraid to share the road with them in something they are likely to run over. In fact I have seen all three things hit or run over by another car and its not pretty. Particularly the little 49cc scooters, they turn out to be pinball's in the city. Though, I would say that the fault belongs to the scooter 75% of the time. 16 year olds playing games. Weaving in and out of traffic, not stopping at lights, riding on the sidewalk, etc.

Personally, I have come to the conclusion that the best transportation for city commute here is a 125cc scooter. Smallish, fast enough to get out of the way, too big to be as stupid on, and are capable of taking the main road if the motor lane is used. However, if you want to go highway, a 250cc is required. However, in recent years they have not been made. Unless you get the Ninja 250. The Zing 125 has had enough factory tweaking to gain a little more HP which puts them up to the the task of taking the highway if you use the slow lane but I would advise against it.

That being said the moto size here is setup like this. Scooters are 49cc, 125cc, 400cc. Motorcycle sizes are 125cc (average), 250cc (only one current model), 600cc (Sport bike only), 750/800cc, and the rare 1600cc Harley. My plans if staying would be to get a 125cc motorcycle and a small car for use when we travel long distances. Though, my wife's car functions for trips.

[KK4AMI]

He had the chip in the computer tuned. This increased both the horsepower and max speed by ten which will save him on fuel consumption. Sometimes a slight increase in HP will result in slightly better mpg. I dont know what NM is. The normal speed limit in his area is 120-130 klm/h (75-80 mph) and he normally goes the speed limit +- 5klm/h. He never takes the car to top speed.

N.M - Newton.Meter is a unit of torque.

[KB3LAZ]

N.M - Newton.Meter is a unit of torque.

I know what a newton meter is but didnt know the abbreviation. Thank you for enlightening me, though, now I feel silly, lol.

[PA5COR]

^What he said, the motor management chip is in the factory set very conservative for area's with fuel that is not having the quality we have here (95 Ron or better) the chip factory program will let the engine run in all circumstances even with low quality fuel.
Chiptuning is a set of commands and maps to program the engine injectors and fuel dosage timing etc, much more economically for good quality fuel getting more MpG and more power out of the engine while the engine still stays within specifications of the car manufacturer
Better and more consistent burrning of the fuel also saves 5 to 10 % in fuel.

Chiptuning here is big busines specially for TDI engines like my friends T5 Van from VW that went from 160 Hp to 210 HP ( horse power.)
Newton/meter is the torque the engine delivers.
A newton metre is a unit (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Physical_unit) of torque (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Torque) (also called "moment (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Moment_(physics))") in the SI (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/International_System_of_Units) system. The symbolic form is N m or N·m,.[1] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-1) One newton metre, sometimes hyphenated newton-metre, is equal to the torque resulting from a force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Force) of one newton (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Newton_(unit)) applied perpendicularly to a moment arm (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Moment_arm) which is one metre (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Metre) long.



1 newton metre = 0.7375621 pound-foot (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)) (often "foot-pound"))
1 kilogram-force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Kilogram-force) metre = 9.80665 Nm[4] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-4)[5] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-5)
1 pound-foot (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)) (often "foot-pound") = 1 pound force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound_force) foot ˜ 1.3558 Nm
1 inch ounce-force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Ounce-force) = 7.0615518 mNm
1 dyne (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Dyne) centimeter = 10−7 Nm

You would be surprised how much space there is in that little car 5 persons space and a usable boot as well.
My first automatic transmission in 30+ years but at least it now boasts some power extra if i want to overtake another car.
Doesn't look much 15% more horsepower or from 87 to 100 N M but it certainly makes a big difference.
The car is from 2000, 48000 miles it had on the odometer used as 2nd car for shopping and always in the garage when not in use.
Didn't pay a lot for it either, new tyres new brakes and one year MOT ( yearly mandatory inspection) did the deal.
Body is fully galvanised so no rust to be found, put undercoating under the car just to be sure.

Ideal in the city, less as 12 foot long, finds a parking space anywhere, and not bad to drive on the main road either.
Yes, it s no middle class or truck or van as i had before, but then i don't need them anymore too.
Low cost maintenance, low on road tax, economic on fuel and insurance.
Put the Kenwood radio/cd player back in 4 speakers ( JBL) and away i go.

More info here: http://www.mpgenhance.com/tuninghorsepower.html
or here: http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/remapping-ecu.php

[KB3LAZ]

^What he said, the motor management chip is in the factory set very conservative for area's with fuel that is not having the quality we have here (95 Ron or better) the chip factory program will let the engine run in all circumstances even with low quality fuel.
Chiptuning is a set of commands and maps to program the engine injectors and fuel dosage timing etc, much more economically for good quality fuel getting more MpG and more power out of the engine while the engine still stays within specifications of the car manufacturer
Better and more consistent burrning of the fuel also saves 5 to 10 % in fuel.

Chiptuning here is big busines specially for TDI engines like my friends T5 Van from VW that went from 160 Hp to 210 HP ( horse power.)
Newton/meter is the torque the engine delivers.
A newton metre is a unit (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Physical_unit) of torque (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Torque) (also called "moment (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Moment_(physics))") in the SI (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/International_System_of_Units) system. The symbolic form is N m or N·m,.[1] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-1) One newton metre, sometimes hyphenated newton-metre, is equal to the torque resulting from a force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Force) of one newton (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Newton_(unit)) applied perpendicularly to a moment arm (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Moment_arm) which is one metre (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Metre) long.



1 newton metre = 0.7375621 pound-foot (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)) (often "foot-pound"))
1 kilogram-force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Kilogram-force) metre = 9.80665 Nm[4] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-4)[5] (https://forums.hamisland.net/#cite_note-5)
1 pound-foot (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)) (often "foot-pound") = 1 pound force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Pound_force) foot ˜ 1.3558 Nm
1 inch ounce-force (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Ounce-force) = 7.0615518 mNm
1 dyne (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Dyne) centimeter = 10−7 Nm

You would be surprised how much space there is in that little car 5 persons space and a usable boot as well.
My first automatic transmission in 30+ years but at least it now boasts some power extra if i want to overtake another car.
Doesn't look much 15% more horsepower or from 87 to 100 N M but it certainly makes a big difference.
The car is from 2000, 48000 miles it had on the odometer used as 2nd car for shopping and always in the garage when not in use.
Didn't pay a lot for it either, new tyres new brakes and one year MOT ( yearly mandatory inspection) did the deal.
Body is fully galvanised so no rust to be found, put undercoating under the car just to be sure.

Ideal in the city, less as 12 foot long, finds a parking space anywhere, and not bad to drive on the main road either.
Yes, it s no middle class or truck or van as i had before, but then i don't need them anymore too.
Low cost maintenance, low on road tax, economic on fuel and insurance.
Put the Kenwood radio/cd player back in 4 speakers ( JBL) and away i go.

O0 an Auto in something other than a Mercedes? Must be more auto trans there than here. I do say, I miss my shift pattern. Many of the cars here are still strange to me. The pattern remains mostly the same on most cars but the gear ratio and the location of reverse gets me. Reverse is first and can only be actuated by push button before adjusting the stick. However, it is so closely geared to first gear that it take precision to hit. Also, first and second are closely spaced but then third is wide, 4th is close, and 5th is wide. I actually have to think about shifting. Also, my MIL drives a diesel and it still startles me when I use it as the engine cuts off at red lights. Clutch depressed or not. I assume this is meant to save fuel.

[N2CHX]

N.M - Newton.Meter is a unit of torque.

Interesting. I never would have guessed that. I'm thinking Nautical Miles but then everything else was in metric, so that didn't make sense.

[PA5COR]

Start/stop method is indeed a fuel saving method , and it all helps.
THe modern diesels are very economical in fuel use here in the EU, and motor management catalitic converters soot filters keep the pollution way down.
I drove shift stick cars all my life including 18 wheelers van's trucks etc.
Only had a Cadillac once 8 banger for fun later used in grass track racing.
Once you get used to manual shifting you won't know better, it saves fuel and you get more horsepower and torque on the road.
Reason i bought this one was the price, and i knew the only owner it had and the garage that sold and maintained it from new.
Lots of small cars here on the road, most people don't drive very far so it is not economic to drive larger cars because the road tax insurance and prices are quite high.

Going from the Hyundai H200 2.5 T diesel van to this car i save each month 150 euro's in direct fixed costs like road tax insurance and maintenance.
Though gas is more expensive as diesel here the little car is more economic as the 2 ton van so even there i save.
When i drove lots of milles as Pipefitter/TIG welder my cars were larger middle class like the Renault Laguna with climate control etc on LNG.
But now with 15.000 Km a year it has no use to drive such big car for me.
I don't have to impress anyone with my car, it just needs to be reliable, fit for my needs in transport and in impeccable mechanical order and cheap to drive .

[N2CHX]

...And don't mind me. That was early this morning and I am stoned off my ass on allergy meds.

[w0aew]

You can put your sdr in your sdc.

[N2CHX]

That is a cool little car, Cor.

[K7SGJ]

Interesting. I never would have guessed that. I'm thinking Nautical Miles but then everything else was in metric, so that didn't make sense.


Helll, I thought he was going to try to drive that thing to New Mexico.

[KB3LAZ]

Start/stop method is indeed a fuel saving method , and it all helps.
THe modern diesels are very economical in fuel use here in the EU, and motor management catalitic converters soot filters keep the pollution way down.
I drove shift stick cars all my life including 18 wheelers van's trucks etc.
Only had a Cadillac once 8 banger for fun later used in grass track racing.
Once you get used to manual shifting you won't know better, it saves fuel and you get more horsepower and torque on the road.
Reason i bought this one was the price, and i knew the only owner it had and the garage that sold and maintained it from new.
Lots of small cars here on the road, most people don't drive very far so it is not economic to drive larger cars because the road tax insurance and prices are quite high.

Going from the Hyundai H200 2.5 T diesel van to this car i save each month 150 euro's in direct fixed costs like road tax insurance and maintenance.
Though gas is more expensive as diesel here the little car is more economic as the 2 ton van so even there i save.
When i drove lots of milles as Pipefitter/TIG welder my cars were larger middle class like the Renault Laguna with climate control etc on LNG.
But now with 15.000 Km a year it has no use to drive such big car for me.
I don't have to impress anyone with my car, it just needs to be reliable, fit for my needs in transport and in impeccable mechanical order and cheap to drive .

I have always driven a standard as well.

One thing I have noticed about here in Spain is that going to the mechanic is highly expensive. It seems that they take advantage of the fact that most people do not have the space or means to do simple maintenance on their own cars. A simple oil change is about 4x the cost of that in the states. Buying parts to fix your car is a challenge too as many places wont sell to an individual. Luckily I have found a few that do. Also, we have a country house so I can do little things myself. Oil change, etc. Saves a few hundred euros to do it yourself. Well, with an oil change it saves about 70€. I changed the water pump myself and that saved 325€.

My wife used to go to the mechanic and get an oil change, add fluids, etc. 400€! Total cost to fill up or change fluids at home, 50€. Now, at first I thought she had one mechanic taking advantage of her but she showed me paperwork for the lifetime of the car and she used 4 or 5 different places and the prices were the same. She used to spend around 1400-1700€ a year on simple upkeep. Now we spend about 400€.

[K7SGJ]

I had my windshield chiptuned. Coincidence? I think not.

[N2RJ]

I thought you guys all used diesels?

[KB3LAZ]

I thought you guys all used diesels?

I dont know about there but here I would say that one in every three cars are diesel. It is cheaper here, better consumption, and the car price is about the same. One thing I dont like is take off. There is nothing there. Which worries me when they guy behind me isnt slowing down. So, its give and take.

[KG4CGC]

I understood what you meant, Cor. We have chips to replace the stock factory computer chip in the vehicle's computer. usually they boast of gains in HP and fuel mileage. Usually a 30% gain in HP results in a 10% gain fuel economy, assuming you don't go crazy with the unleashed horses. Some chips in the original version simply need an interface to a laptop running a program that you can tune yourself to suit your exact needs. Knew a few guys in California who did this with their mom's minivans. They'd take them out to the track and get a base reading, then change a few parameters in the program and set up for a drag race. It was pretty popular and a good way to demonstrate how it could be done.

Currently, I'm looking into a chip to replace the one in the truck. The best one so far runs about $70USD and promises to extend engine life if you use it properly.

[PA5COR]

50% diesel and 40% petrol 10% other fuels like LNG or natural gas, electric, or dual fuel.

Improve the torque in the low revs with tuning and resetting the map for the turbo and wastegate.
The power will be there from the start and you get lots of power more, diesels, specially the TDI's can gain a lot of power and torque from tuning and specially in the lower rev's section.

Maintenance here is cheap depending on brand and model of car, a mercedes or Porsche will be very expensive as expected certainly at the brand's own dealer.
Here an hourly wage billed to you runs 80 -110 euro in the brrands own garage.
I always go to an non brand universal garage from an old M8 of me, he passed away last year but the people in the garage are still there, i pay 45 euro an hour there, Hyundai parts i can buy myself at the wholesale store where the garages get their stuff as well.

In my younger years 18 and up i had to repair the cars myself because the garage was too expensive, changed motors gearboxes replaced heads, etc.
Too lazy to do it now, a full checkup of the Hyundai Atoz including automatic gearbox oil change engine oil change MOT ( yearly manndatory inspection lasting 1 hour) including 4 gas test, brake test etc will set me back 200 euro.
Brake disks including new pads front wheels including work 100 euro.
Parts for the hyundai's are cheap as chips, same went for my van reason i bought it instead of a VW van where the parts are very expensive.

I tend to buy cars not only based on model and use expected and color, i rather look at all angles including maintenance chances on breakdowns, reliabillety etc.

I don't care for airco i have AWCO all windows can open ( electrically) ;)
The Hyundai Atos (also known as Atoz, Amica and Santro Xing, Dodge Atos ,Kia Visto i have the Hyundai Atos Prime.
Just me and my son drive in it 2 persons or just me, so no need for a big car.
Here the original data, mine now has 10 Horsepower more and 100 N M. as measured on the testbench.

Dimensions

Length: 3,495 mm (137.6 in)
Width: 1,495 mm (58.9 in)
Height: 1,580 mm (62.2 in)
Wheelbase: 2,380 mm (93.7 in)
Unladen weight: 847 kg (1,867 lb)

Technical data

Fuel Delivery: Multi-Point Injection (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Fuel_injection#Multi-point_fuel_injection)
Transmission: 5-speed manual (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Manual_transmission) or automatic
Engine size & layout: 999 cc, I4 (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Straight-4), 12 valves
Peak Power: 40 kW (54.4 PS; 53.6 bhp)
Peak Torque: 82 N·m (60 lb·ft)
0-60 mph (96 km/h): 14.6 s
Top Speed: 160 km/h (99 mph)
Fuel economy: 6.4 L/100 km (44 mpg-imp; 37 mpg-US)
Emissions: 151 g CO2/km, other emissions below Euro III (https://forums.hamisland.net/wiki/Euro_III) standard

[N2CHX]

I understood what you meant, Cor. We have chips to replace the stock factory computer chip in the vehicle's computer. usually they boast of gains in HP and fuel mileage. Usually a 30% gain in HP results in a 10% gain fuel economy, assuming you don't go crazy with the unleashed horses. Some chips in the original version simply need an interface to a laptop running a program that you can tune yourself to suit your exact needs. Knew a few guys in California who did this with their mom's minivans. They'd take them out to the track and get a base reading, then change a few parameters in the program and set up for a drag race. It was pretty popular and a good way to demonstrate how it could be done.

Currently, I'm looking into a chip to replace the one in the truck. The best one so far runs about $70USD and promises to extend engine life if you use it properly.

Interesting. I must admit that cars are a technology I don't know a lot about and don't care to. I will work on my bike all day long but I absolutely will not work on a car outside of simple things like changing lamps and stuff like that. Too much of a PITA.

[NQ6U]

I've thought about hot chipping my little pickup truck—lord knows it could use all the extra power it could get—but here in California I have to bring it in for emissions testing every year before I can register it. That makes it inconvenient.

[PA5COR]

Using a decent mapping can improve the emissions so that you will pass the Cali demands, here the cars have the same or even strickter emission standards to comply to.
Better burning of the fuel = more efficiency = lower emissions = less fuel wasted.
And add power and torque as well.
Most petrol cars gain 10 -15 percent if the engine is chipped for that particular engine in the car as was done with mine.

Diesel cars specially with Turbo and intercooler will be able to be boosted 30-40% in power.
Reason most people here with diesels even under warranty have them chipped.

I was certainly happy with the result 15% more H.P and torque translates in faster accelleration for overtaking creating a buffer to fall back on if needed.
I will stay driving like i did and see a better gas mileage in return and know i have better engine power if needed.
I must admit that driving away at a stoplight with the little dinkytoy beating a souped up bigger car is always fun ;)
Not to be done daily, just having a younger guy with baseball cap wrong on his head hanging sideways in the car looking around to see if people can see how "macho" he is next to you is somewhat of an uncontrolable urge....

I had the same with the Alfa Romeo 156 tuned red one i bought for the ex twin spark chip tuned set lower on the road, sport suspention and all that crap, and saw her beat lots of 6 cylinder VW Golf with the obvious macho guys in it, their faces were hilarious to see whn she wizzed by them as if they were standing still...

Not much chance even with the souped up 1.0i engine is it...