Suggestions for Best Internal Fuel System Cleaner

[KG4CGC]

Looking for a strong fuel system cleaner that will cut the crud off the jets inside the carb in the course of running the fuel through the system. I need an additive as I REALLY don't want to break the carb open.

Seafoam and others like it are high in lubricants. That's fine but at this time I can forgo the lube for a tank or two in order to knock the crud off of the pilot and main jets.

[NQ6U]

Carburetor? Oh, yeah, I remember those...

[WØTKX]

Acetone? Old school carb cleaner is hard to find.

Honda branded cleaner works well.

But you may have no choice in taking it apart. When I ran burly Weber carbs on my Opels, I kept a rebuilt spare ready to go. Didn't need to swap and clean as much when I mixed 2.5 gallons of avgas with a tankful.

[PA5COR]

I'm addding acetone to my diesel, just 100 cc for a full tank of 65 liters diesel, never use cleaning agents since.
Also helps burning sunflower oil ;)

But make sure all your gaskets can handle the acetone, some will dissolve ....

[W5GA]

https://www.essentialube.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=3
Unlike most of them, this works.

[WØTKX]

Yea, I forgot about the gasket issue. But after having experiences with one four wheeled teapot (a Bug Eyed Sprite) I learned about melting gaskets in fuel and brake systems. Replaced them all with aftermarket race ready parts, no more problems. Previous owner put in nasty fuel additives, and kept adding cheap brands of brake fluid to the point where the vehicle would not start easily, and would not stop well. Had to use compressed air and solvents to blow the brake pistons loose on two axles, they were that gummed up.

Fixed it, and got rid of that car quickly.

[KG4CGC]

I have solved most of my problem. Good thing too because if this didn't work, I was going to have to breakdown the carburetor.
Leaky air box. The assembly that holds the air filter. Over time the damn thing just warps a bit and gets leaks around where the two halves go together. This makes it run like it isn't jetted correctly. For the new air flow, it isn't. I also sealed the cracks around the rubber tube leading from the air box to the carb air intake. Although the cracks didn't look like they went all the way through, hey, I had it apart anyway.

I took out the gasket or liner or whatever you want to call it from the side that held it in place in a groove that went all the way around and applied a thin layer of silicone plumbers glue and let it get tacky. I reinstalled the gasket and trimmed away the excess from the inside surface of the air box. After it dried some (this stuff will peel right off this plastic if need be) I test fitted the outer half of the air box and saw the problem areas. I added a lip to the other half of the unit with the glue so that it covered over the openings. Presto! She's running like a stroked kitten! (from hell on steroids)

Next time I have to take it apart to change the air filter, I know what extra tool I'll need. Yep, goop.

Learn about the CV carburetor here: http://www.battlescooter.com/1.html
This link does talk about mods to the carb and I could have tried to rejet to adapt to a leaky air box but that just ignores the bypass that's letting in the dirt. And ... if the jets are not right, guess what? Break it down again Tony! Or Yoshi, if that's more appropriate for the Japanese.

Edit for lulz: Break it down again Yoshi = BIDAY! lulz

[N8YX]

Techron has always worked good for me.

I have to tear the carbs off one of my Valkyries later this spring and de-gunk all of them. Gonna install new pilot jets - #38 instead of the #35 which are stock. Less prone to plugging up and the bike runs a whole lot better.

[KG4CGC]

Techron has always worked good for me.

I have to tear the carbs off one of my Valkyries later this spring and de-gunk all of them. Gonna install new pilot jets - #38 instead of the #35 which are stock. Less prone to plugging up and the bike runs a whole lot better.
The pilot on mine is a little dirty and I have the Techron stuff so I'm just going to see it that will help it solve itself. As for additives in general, they could possibly short the life of your fuel line check valves. In my case it is made out of a stone-like material that severely restricts the flow of fuel from the fuel pump but it is also there to keep the flow metered before it enters the carb. For some reason, I've read about many complaints from people who used additives to boost octane that the additive plugged up the check valves. It's possible but, so far so good on mine. Consider that I have not compared it to a new one but don't look for me to be buying any new parts out of Japan for a while.

ETA: I have compared it to another used one and can not tell any difference.

[NQ6U]

Huh, those carbs are sort of a modernized version of the SU carbs all my Sixties-era British sports cars had on them. Except that being Japanese, they probably don't leak oil.

[w3bny]

Start your engines Its at wally mart. Kinda pricey but it will bring a small engine back from the dead. Oh and seafoam FTW as well!

[KG4CGC]

Huh, those carbs are sort of a modernized version of the SU carbs all my Sixties-era British sports cars had on them. Except that being Japanese, they probably don't leak oil.
I didn't understand the constant velocity aspect until I read about how the how the vacuum actuates the air inlet. The diaphragm on the top, the spring, the needle in the center of it, etc.

[KG4CGC]

Start your engines Its at wally mart. Kinda pricey but it will bring a small engine back from the dead. Oh and seafoam FTW as well!
I've noticed many things run better with Seafoam. Trucks, lawnmowers, 50cc screaming Japanese bumble bees.

[NQ6U]

¿Que is "Seafoam?"

[KG4CGC]

¿Que is "Seafoam?"
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-our-products.html

[NQ6U]

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-our-products.html

"Deep Creep" sound like a good alias to use on a porn site.