View Full Version : Canon EOS 550D (Rebel T2i)...
W3MIV
02-13-2011, 05:00 PM
Well, I just bit that bullet and ordered a new Canon camera to replace the 2003 model that has given yeoman service on these past eight years.
Eighteen megapixels is a substantial jump over what I have been using and DPreview gives it a 77% final score. In their words, "In terms of both still and video capture, the 550D is currently the best camera of its type on the market."
Caveats are that it won't perform at high-speed RAW captures, fagging out a six or so in burst shooting, though it apparently will shoot long bursts when shooting high-pixel jpegs. Demands a high-speed SD card in order to swallow the frames. I don't do that sort of shooting, so it is not much of a worry. Also the ergonomics are basically those of the Rebel family -- more basic than many pros may prefer.
A new feature for me is that this camera shoots HD video (1960x1080) at a nominal 30fps. Interesting. I am not a video camera afficionado, but I can see where having that capability may be a handy tool to have in the same box as the still stuff.
Full review here (more than you ever wanted to know about a camera) (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos550d/default.asp).
Only downside of this is that Canon changed the battery grip, and also the batteries, that I have for the old Rebel. Ergo, the grip and extra battery get added to the pile. I have grown too used to having the ease of the extra controls and shutter button for verticals, as well as the added battery life of having two in the camera.
I have an assignment that will require some play-time before risking serious embarrassment by fumbling with a new camera on site, so I will likely gobble a lot of photons in the next several days.
I do shoot RAW much of the time, and I have to see how this new rig manages 24+MB image files. Even though I don't shoot continuous action series, there are times when one needs to shoot a series of shots quickly -- I love sequential frames of people doing things: three or four frames in a sequence can impart a lot of information about what is being done. Too slow moving the images from processor to card can be a bummer. Worst case, though, is to switch to jpeg for those sequences.
More later one the Wunderwaffe arrives.
KG4CGC
02-13-2011, 05:15 PM
Sounds like a fine piece of modern optical wizardry! How long will it allow the shutter to stay open in bulb mode?
W3MIV
02-13-2011, 05:31 PM
Sounds like a fine piece of modern optical wizardry! How long will it allow the shutter to stay open in bulb mode?
As long as you hold the shutter open by pressing and holding the release. Cumbersome without an electronic release cable, but doable.
On the old Synchro-Compur shutters I used to use with view-camera lenses, there was always a B and a T shutter setting -- the "B"ulb setting permitted holding the shutter open long enough for a manual (or sluggish) flash or a series of separate flashes set out to cover a large scene and the "T"ime setting held the shutter open until it was pressed a second time to close. Many of the old-style cable releases had a locking screw that would permit the photog to hold the button down by tightening the screw. All lenses did not have a "T" setting.
KG4CGC
02-13-2011, 08:31 PM
As long as you hold the shutter open by pressing and holding the release. Cumbersome without an electronic release cable, but doable.
On the old Synchro-Compur shutters I used to use with view-camera lenses, there was always a B and a T shutter setting -- the "B"ulb setting permitted holding the shutter open long enough for a manual (or sluggish) flash or a series of separate flashes set out to cover a large scene and the "T"ime setting held the shutter open until it was pressed a second time to close. Many of the old-style cable releases had a locking screw that would permit the photog to hold the button down by tightening the screw. All lenses did not have a "T" setting.
I have an original Hasselblad cable for manual 35mm film cameras but the digital uses a IR remote, for best results that is.
kf0rt
02-13-2011, 08:31 PM
Coolio, Albi. I'm sure you'll enjoy the new Canon.
I'm more familiar with the Nikon brand of digital photo neurosis, but the Canon stuff does just as well. Got a new Nikon D7000 here; love it, but it was supposed to be in Mexico instead of Colorado today (long story).
Post pics, won't you?
W3MIV
02-14-2011, 06:18 AM
As soon as it arrives, Rob, I plan to fondle it. One thing leading to another, that usually produces offspring that I hope to post.
The Nikon D7000 is quite an excellent choice; good writeup on DPreview. Were I not so heavily invested in Canon glass I could happily live with N's products -- did so for many years when things were done using that curious celluloid stuff. And thinking of fillum, I resurrected an Olympus RF model from a cabinet in which it was hiding. Stuck a fresh battry in in and found that Wally still sells some (a few -- damned few) rolls of 135. As soon as I find a pair of bell-bottoms and my Nehru jacket, I plan a retro shoot.
KC2UGV
02-14-2011, 12:57 PM
How big of a pic can you do with an 18 MP camera?
W3MIV
02-14-2011, 08:06 PM
Print specs would indicate about 12x18 for native resolution for this size processor.
Of course, it all depends on the output material and viewing distance. I have produced Duratrans panels up to ten feet wide with my old Rebel and its 6.3MP chip. They were meant to be viewed at a distance of several feet. Remember, this camera (like most of the "prosumer" DSLRs) uses a reduced size CMOS sensor, which is about 5/8 the size of a full frame. High-end cameras using full-frame chips (24x36) offer better resolution and higher print quality using 16MP chips.
W3MIV
02-14-2011, 08:15 PM
Talk about dumb luck! When I decided to order this camera, I worried over whether I should buy body only or buy it as a "kit," which includes a new version of the lens I already own. Figuring that I could probably sell the earlier Rebel more easily with a lens than as a body-only, I crunched the cartridge and ordered it as a kit with the 18-55mm lens.
Come to find out, the new lens offers image stabilization and has a slightly upgraded optical formula -- as I understand it, they made the front element slightly larger which reduces light fall-off in the corners at its operating margins. According to DPreview, the new version has slightly better specs, and gets a slightly higher score. The cheap bastards at Canon still don't include even a chintzy plastic lens hood, though. You have to buy it as an option.
KC2UGV
02-16-2011, 12:23 PM
Print specs would indicate about 12x18 for native resolution for this size processor.
Of course, it all depends on the output material and viewing distance. I have produced Duratrans panels up to ten feet wide with my old Rebel and its 6.3MP chip. They were meant to be viewed at a distance of several feet. Remember, this camera (like most of the "prosumer" DSLRs) uses a reduced size CMOS sensor, which is about 5/8 the size of a full frame. High-end cameras using full-frame chips (24x36) offer better resolution and higher print quality using 16MP chips.
12x18 prints for a 'prosumer'? Wow...
W3MIV
02-19-2011, 08:00 PM
Here are the first test shots.
This is a jpeg shot hand-held, EF-S 18-55 IS; 20mm focal length, 1/30 sec at f3.5 (wide open) at ISO 800. The only lighting was the CFL lamp shown in the pic. Fair amount of digital noise is apparent, but not objectionable; highlights very well handled. Native size of images is about 21.5" x 14.5" @ 240dpi or about 5184x3450 pixels.
3966
This is a detail from the center showing that the keys are surprisingly sharp for hand-holding at 1/30. The "kit" lens is not the best, but far from the worst I have seen, and the IS seems to work fairly well. I ain't the steadiest hand on the shutter, for sure.
3965
If the damned wind here drops to hurricane force or less tomorrow, I plan to take it out for a spin with a few other odd bits of glass. Need to get some time with this thing before taking it out for real; but for a few really esoteric menu items, it seems pretty straight-forward.
I have large hands, and the camera is a bit small; I added a cheap-ass battery grip (from China) just to give me something more to hang onto. I used one on the previous camera, and I got used to it. Instead of paying an additional $165 for the Canon grip, I bought this one for $30! Damn if it isn't pretty well made -- almost as good as the Canon model I can no longer use. We shall see how it holds up.
KC2UGV
02-19-2011, 08:29 PM
Holy sheet man... I feel like I can reach out and feel the wood grain in those pics :O
The heck with the camera, how's that single-malt?
W3MIV
02-19-2011, 08:35 PM
Hands off the private stock. Why do you think I need image stabilization?
W1GUH
02-20-2011, 07:14 AM
Hands off the private stock. Why do you think I need image stabilization?
And I see you've got the cover-up mints handy! ;)
And about noise in low-light. I rationalize that that's there on purpose to simulate grain from high ASA film!
And about noise in low-light. I rationalize that that's there on purpose to simulate grain from high ASA film!
I've found that setting the ASA on my digital camera (a high-end Panasonic with Leica optics, but a not DSLR) to 200 or less minimizes digital noise.
W3MIV
02-20-2011, 05:15 PM
But you cannot take many photos in available light at an ISO of 200 or less.
But you cannot take many photos in available light at an ISO of 200 or less.
It's a trade-off. Personally, I'd rather drag out the tripod or monopod than have a lot of digital noise in my photos. YMMV, of course, and if it's something important enough I'll just say "eff the noise" and dial up the ISO if that's what it takes.
KG4CGC
02-21-2011, 02:12 AM
It's a trade-off. Personally, I'd rather drag out the tripod or monopod than have a lot of digital noise in my photos. YMMV, of course, and if it's something important enough I'll just say "eff the noise" and dial up the ISO if that's what it takes.
Now there's something that pretty much goes with me everywhere. I'm wondering if a tripod can go as carry on?
W3MIV
02-21-2011, 10:12 AM
Somehow I can't see TSA permitting either a monopod or tripod to go into the passenger compartment as carry-on. I could be wrong (stranger things have happened ;) ), but if I cannot carry a tiny nail-clipper on board, I can't imagine being premitted to board with a virtual bludgeon.
W3MIV
02-21-2011, 10:16 AM
One thing I am learning with this new camera: The lenses one once thought were capable of producing good images are stressed to the max. Some, alas, are revealed to be of far lower optical quality than had hitherto been revealed. Fortunately, PS CS5 has some pretty strong tools for correcting many lens defects -- especially distortion and chromatic aberrations -- but 18MP is an acid test.
W1GUH
02-21-2011, 02:22 PM
Somehow I can't see TSA permitting either a monopod or tripod to go into the passenger compartment as carry-on. I could be wrong (stranger things have happened ;) ), but if I cannot carry a tiny nail-clipper on board, I can't imagine being premitted to board with a virtual bludgeon.
That's probably true. Even a combination wrench longer than the "standard", about 6", is a bludgeon.
But, there is this...Adorama's "The Pod." (http://www.adorama.com/TPTPB.html)
http://www.adorama.com/images/product/TPTPB.jpg
Somehow I can't see TSA permitting either a monopod or tripod to go into the passenger compartment as carry-on. I could be wrong (stranger things have happened ;) ), but if I cannot carry a tiny nail-clipper on board, I can't imagine being premitted to board with a virtual bludgeon.
Ah, but many people have been killed with nail clippers! Well, okay, not many, but some. Okay okay, no one has ever been killed with a nail clipper. But someone could be, and the TSA has to think of every possibility. It's for the children, after all.
W3MIV
02-21-2011, 02:42 PM
That's probably true. Even a combination wrench longer than the "standard", about 6", is a bludgeon.
But, there is this...Adorama's "The Pod." (http://www.adorama.com/TPTPB.html)
http://www.adorama.com/images/product/TPTPB.jpg
Clever, these adoramans! I shall have to check that out. I see lots of versatility in that... plus, it reminds me of the bean-bag chair in which I sat and grooved lo, those many years ago. Far out! Of course, it was lemon yellow...
W1GUH
02-21-2011, 02:44 PM
There's another model with the screw in the middle, more suitable for an SLR. Just don't try to open the bottom!
W3MIV
02-21-2011, 03:06 PM
There's another model with the screw in the middle...
Geezie peezie! That really is like my ol' bean-bag. There were screws in the middle of it, too!
W1GUH
02-21-2011, 03:23 PM
Probably should put a KNOB on that screw when not in use?
W3MIV
02-21-2011, 03:27 PM
Probably should put a KNOB on that screw when not in use?
I much preferred putting the knob to the screw when it was in use. :yes:
kf0rt
03-04-2011, 06:54 PM
Somehow I can't see TSA permitting either a monopod or tripod to go into the passenger compartment as carry-on. I could be wrong (stranger things have happened ;) ), but if I cannot carry a tiny nail-clipper on board, I can't imagine being premitted to board with a virtual bludgeon.
Got a new tripod trick for y'all... Lemme see if I can photograph it.
http://www.westton.com/misc/tripod.jpg
This is a short(ish) 1/4 x 20 flathead slotted screw with a simple washer welded in the screw slot. Can be silver-soldered but the "bud" who made it for me had acetylene handy at the time, so it was welded. 100 of these will fit in your pocket (but might be heavy; and you only need one). Nothing critical in the construction.
The 1/4-20 screw fits the tripod socket on your camera, and to the washer, you attach a length of cord. I'm told that parachute cord works well; you want something that isn't TOO elastic, but has some strength -- nylon might work well too. 7-8 feet of cord should be plenty. Let the cord dangle to the ground and hold it down with your foot (stand on it). You get the "picture."
My buddy tells me that this actually works very well in practice; good for a few F-stops of stability. He read about it on dpreview and decided to try it. Costs almost nothing to make, it's "TSA safe" and you can carry the whole thing in your pocket.
Worth a 'shot?'
I hate to pick nits but that washer looks as if it's brazed rather than welded...
Nicely photographed, though.
kf0rt
03-04-2011, 09:27 PM
I hate to pick nits but that washer looks as if it's brazed rather than welded...
Nicely photographed, though.
Brazed would be right. Not much of an expert in the attachment arts here, so forgive me if I lump too much into the "welding" stuff. If it ain't soldered, it must be welding.
This was actually the first time I ever witnessed "brazing." Oxy/acetylene torch, and some sort of "solder." Fuel from some big tanks, and the whole affair glowed red. I'd need to take a class just to know the right terms. It was fun to watch -- my "help" involved striking the matches.
But, I did replace a blade in the band saw last week and installed 5 copies of Windows 7 Pro today. Software Engineering: Just keep paying my salary, eh?
kc7jty
03-04-2011, 11:54 PM
it's also a "pan" or "round" head screw.
it's also a "pan" or "round" head screw.
Round head for sure:
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/108989734/Round_Head_Screw.jpg
Here's a pan head:
http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/c75e85b2c7b34106028be8573111ed987a09debb/SA105201-PAN-HEAD-SCREW-M5X20.jpg
WØTKX
03-05-2011, 03:01 AM
I feel so inadequate, my new camera is such a wimpy thang. But it was only $79.00 on sale.
Sanyo VPC-T1495 (http://digital-cameras-planet.com/blog/2010/10/12/affordable-14-megapixel-sanyo-vpc-t1495-digital-camera-coming/) Still getting used to it, no decent pics (or vids) yet.
I used to mess with high end cameras, but I lost interest due to the theft of a wonderful (gulp) Rollieflex FT 135. Enjoyed dorking around with large grain B&W film more than anything. Cheap bathtub darkroom. :mrgreen:
Many other things were stolen, but replacing the tools I needed for work took all the $$$ I had. Never had a $pendy camera after that. And I usually carried renters insurance that covered theft premium after that.
W3MIV
03-05-2011, 12:26 PM
Round head for sure:
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/108989734/Round_Head_Screw.jpg
Here's a pan head:
http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/c75e85b2c7b34106028be8573111ed987a09debb/SA105201-PAN-HEAD-SCREW-M5X20.jpg
Pan head engine.
4006
kc7jty
03-05-2011, 05:02 PM
Round head for sure:
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/108989734/Round_Head_Screw.jpg
Here's a pan head:
http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/c75e85b2c7b34106028be8573111ed987a09debb/SA105201-PAN-HEAD-SCREW-M5X20.jpg
exactly, looks like a pan head would be a better choice
W3MIV
03-05-2011, 05:48 PM
Not sure I've ever seen a pan-head 1/4-20 bolt. Seems a fairly odd hardware item.
exactly, looks like a pan head would be a better choice
You may be right. In either case, I'd take a grinder to the washer and flatten one edge before I brazed it in place.
ad4mg
03-06-2011, 09:36 AM
You may be right. In either case, I'd take a grinder to the washer and flatten one edge before I brazed it in place.
Mercy ...
<sarcasm> I'd sandblast the zinc coating from both, 'vee' the slot where the washer attaches, and perform a full penetration heliarc weld using base metal with at least 80,000 lb of tensile strength. </sarcasm>
Either that, or use liquid steel. :stickpoke:
:lol:
Mercy ...
<sarcasm> I'd sandblast the zinc coating from both, 'vee' the slot where the washer attaches, and perform a full penetration heliarc weld using base metal with at least 80,000 lb of tensile strength. </sarcasm>
Either that, or use a tea bag. :stickpoke:
:lol:
Fixed that for ya... ;)
Mercy ...
<sarcasm> I'd sandblast the zinc coating from both, 'vee' the slot where the washer attaches, and perform a full penetration heliarc weld using base metal with at least 80,000 lb of tensile strength. </sarcasm>
:lol:
You mean TIG (Tungsten-Inert Gas) weld it, don't you? Heli-Arc is a trademark and no one uses helium anymore anyway. They've switched to argon ;)
kf0rt
03-06-2011, 06:27 PM
You may be right. In either case, I'd take a grinder to the washer and flatten one edge before I brazed it in place.
I actually did that. :)
And it was a pan head. Found it in a drawer of hardware parts in the building's maintenance shop.
Highly qualified mechanical dood, I ain't. I should mention also that this screw is too long (bottoms out in my D80). 1/4" ought to be about right.
Here's the same kind of arrangement, but for 14 bucks (and used as part of a camera strap):
http://www.blackrapid.com/product/hardware/fastenr3/
ab1ga
03-06-2011, 07:07 PM
If duct tape won't work, try carpenter's glue.
If that won't work, try CA glue.
If that won't work, try epoxy.
If that won't work, fix it in software.
W3MIV
03-06-2011, 07:51 PM
I had a tripod years ago which I had bought from Spiratone (remember them?) that had a screw just like that at the bottom of the center post. The screw was intended to be removed and used just as your make-shift, with a length of parachute cord. On the tripod, it was intended to permit you to add a weight, a sand bag or similar bit of avoirdupois, to the bottom of the center shaft to add steadiness. I still have the tripod somewhere around here. It was too big and bulky to be suitable for 35mm work, having only three-section legs, but was good for larger formats.
I never found the screw worked that well when using a length of cord, although it did yield a stop or stop and a half at most. Under tension, it is still a bit squirrelly and the tension can make your hand shake if you try to pull to hard. If you've been humping along and try a quick catch while you are breathing hard, all bets are off. YMMV. A monopod definitely works better. My favorite is a fly-fishing staff that has a removable walnut knob under which is a 1/4" stub of 1/4-20 screw. I usually carry a multi-section monopod that collapses to about fourteen inches and a Velbon ball-head tripod with my bag. Canon's IS system seems to work well for a couple, maybe two and a half stops -- with that system, the string would really come into its own.
When working out of the back of the auto, I use an old Tamrac duffle; when I am forced to hike through the cow flops and chicken flickin's, I use a Lowepro back pack.
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