View Full Version : No mo' heaters.
KA5PIU
01-21-2011, 11:26 PM
Hello.
It hit below freezing last night, so Walmart sold Every electric anything that even looked like a heater, by the morning.
What can I say, a bunch of Mexicans! :yes:
Even the heat lamps, all gone.
Think what would happen if it really got cold around here. :scared:
W4RLR
01-21-2011, 11:48 PM
I'm toasty here even though it will drop to 20 degrees tonight. The temperature was in the teens overnight last week. If the electricity goes, we decamp to the RV and use propane.
Been getting up above 70°F here lately, warm for January even by San Diego standards. It's about 48°F at 21:30 PST. We haven't had to use heat for a couple of weeks.
n2ize
01-22-2011, 01:47 AM
It's 15 degrees F here and I have the window open about an inch. It;;s a comfortable 61 degrees in here.
KA5PIU
01-22-2011, 11:48 PM
Hello.
Some have become desperate and have asked if the heaters cvan be repaired.
The vast numbers have this safety circuit that has failed.
The way it has been implemented is to have one device do 2 things, thermostat as well as safety shutoff.
The easy solution is to wire around all of it and leave it on but this can leave it in an unsafe condition.
However the way it has been constructed it can just as easily fail and cause a fire.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZXz1-J-FLI
KG4CGC
01-22-2011, 11:51 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdAXPWvy4E8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdAXPWvy4E8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0YrXjeRSoE
w3bny
01-24-2011, 10:49 AM
MEH.... Kerosun baybeh...KEROSUN! And the two settings... off and :evil: BLAZING :evil:
kb2crk
01-24-2011, 10:55 AM
35 degrees here outside. warm enough that we will get rain rather than the ice and snow that were predicted. the heat pump has been working great since i put the wrong motor in it two weeks ago after the old one failed. yes i can hear the air moving now but it actually runs less now that it did with the old motor. i am still trying to figure out why a 3 year old electric blower motor failed but this is a sign of the times...
KA5PIU
01-24-2011, 12:49 PM
Hello.
I need not worry about that.
This joint was built with a gravity heater in the basement, why it, and a basement I do not know.
But it is very easy to work on.
I replaced the manual controls with automatic from an old boiler that was upgraded and later replaced, way overkill.
Another smaller gas fired unit was added and an auto plenum was added to both.
Central AC and heat is also here, and what I normally run, if not just the window units, that can both heat and cool.
Yes, the old man who built this place was from up North and wanted to be sure he was warm.
KC2UGV
01-24-2011, 01:11 PM
35 degrees here outside. warm enough that we will get rain rather than the ice and snow that were predicted. the heat pump has been working great since i put the wrong motor in it two weeks ago after the old one failed. yes i can hear the air moving now but it actually runs less now that it did with the old motor. i am still trying to figure out why a 3 year old electric blower motor failed but this is a sign of the times...
If it fails again, maybe you could find an APU for a Bell 47 to put in there?
kb2crk
01-24-2011, 01:18 PM
now just because i can take a 2 speed 825 rpm motor out and make a 3 speed 1075 rpm motor work does not make me a miracle worker like cow pie.
i have my limitations...... the only place that had a motor with the right frame size was grainger. they could have ordered the right motor and had it in three days for 230 bucks, or i could have the 3 speed right then for 72 bucks. with 3 inches of ice on the ground and no warm up in sight at the time it was a no brainer. if i had the time i could have used a bell apu and some of the motorola parts in the garage to start a nice fire in the fireplace....lmao
n2ize
01-24-2011, 01:27 PM
Want a real heater ?? Here ya go. Perfection oil heater circa 1932. I WAS the proud owner of one of these beauties. The thing worked great too. Until one day it was in the garage and my dad climbed up to get something, slipped, and his foot ended up coming down squarely on my antique heater crushing the heck out of it. I tried to straighten it out but it was never the same. Sad loss of a beautiful antique.
http://www.antique-cast-iron-stoves.com/kerosene_gas_oil_heaters/7-18_perfection_smokeless_oil_heater.jpg
W1GUH
01-24-2011, 03:22 PM
They tell us not to warm a place with the oven. So...on really cold days a roast a turkey.
w2amr
01-24-2011, 03:45 PM
Hello.
The easy solution is to wire around all of it and leave it on but this can leave it in an unsafe condition.
Then it really isn't a solution , is it?
KA5PIU
01-24-2011, 04:06 PM
Then it really isn't a solution , is it?
Hello.
All this does is have a heater that is like the ones build before all of the safety hoopla, if done right.
The trouble is that the new heaters want to keep the temp of the elements below incandescent.
This allows lint to collect and the heater safety to shut down.
The old heaters simply burned all of the lint off, and why the foul oder when you first turn them on.
My old milkhouse heater runs nearly hot.
The newer one ran only a bit warm.
Same element, but the new one was wired for 110 and the old one is 220.
The new one quit, so I took it apart, very carefully examined the device and took notes.
The old heater had a fabric cord that was going bad so I had replaced the wiring a few weeks before.
Now, the new one runs on 220 also.
The major change is that there is a relay in the new one, the motor is 110 but the heating element is now 110 in low and 220 in high.
In the old one everything is 220.
They are within 1/4 amp draw equal in operation.
My guess is that the Chinese took the 220 design and set it up for 110 to run cooler in the US and everywhere else it is 220.
Cheap way to produce more of the same product.
n2ize
01-24-2011, 04:15 PM
Hello.
Some have become desperate and have asked if the heaters cvan be repaired.
The vast numbers have this safety circuit that has failed.
The way it has been implemented is to have one device do 2 things, thermostat as well as safety shutoff.
The easy solution is to wire around all of it and leave it on but this can leave it in an unsafe condition.
However the way it has been constructed it can just as easily fail and cause a fire.
Wouldn't it be easier to simply install an inexpensive thermal cutoff ?
KA5PIU
01-24-2011, 06:11 PM
Wouldn't it be easier to simply install an inexpensive thermal cutoff ?
Hello.
There is already a thermal cutout.
The trouble is that the heating element does not get hot enough to burn away the lint.
The lint builds up, insulates the heating element, and the thermal cutout trips.
True, one can clean the heating element and reset or replace the thermal cutout.
However the heating element is still going to run cool.
Or, simply rewire the thing to run on 220 and get a whole lot more heat, and have the element burn off all that nasty lint.
If done correctly it is as safe as the original milkhouse heater.
w2amr
01-25-2011, 03:38 AM
220-221 what ever it takes.
kb2crk
01-25-2011, 04:11 AM
what if you only have 208? or 240, or 480??????
w2amr
01-25-2011, 04:43 AM
what if you only have 208? or 240, or 480??????
Then yer chitt outta luck.
KA5PIU
01-25-2011, 05:04 AM
Hello.
It is a heater.
By its very nature it is nothing more than a resistor.
110/220 is easy to deal with.
If I could only get 208 or 240 I would use a little trick that is very common in cheap hair dryers.
http://ftp.aip.org/epaps/phys_teach/E-PHTEAH-46-009809/Eisenstein_Appendix.pdf
I would not use diodes as the motor runs on AC.
And I would not use the heater element as a resistor.
What I would do is use a 110 volt light bulb of the correct rating to a balance of the electric motor.
At 208 volts the light bulb would be dim and thus the resistance would be low, providing more current to the motor.
But at 240 volts there would be more current across the light bulb and it would have more resistance, limiting the voltage across the motor.
The heater proper would produce more or less heat with more or less voltage.
The design voltage is 220 for the heating element so this would work.
For 480 I would find a transformer, as 480 is not an acceptable voltage from a safety standpoint.
The light bulb would act as a ballast tube.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/features/ballast.shtml
kb2crk
01-25-2011, 07:09 AM
Hello.
It is a heater.
By its very nature it is nothing more than a resistor.
110/220 is easy to deal with.
If I could only get 208 or 240 I would use a little trick that is very common in cheap hair dryers.
http://ftp.aip.org/epaps/phys_teach/E-PHTEAH-46-009809/Eisenstein_Appendix.pdf
I would not use diodes as the motor runs on AC.
And I would not use the heater element as a resistor.
What I would do is use a 110 volt light bulb of the correct rating to a balance of the electric motor.
At 208 volts the light bulb would be dim and thus the resistance would be low, providing more current to the motor.
But at 240 volts there would be more current across the light bulb and it would have more resistance, limiting the voltage across the motor.
The heater proper would produce more or less heat with more or less voltage.
The design voltage is 220 for the heating element so this would work.
For 480 I would find a transformer, as 480 is not an acceptable voltage from a safety standpoint.
The light bulb would act as a ballast tube.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/features/ballast.shtml
lets see what is necessary for 208 or 240.... nothing cowpie..... 208, 220 and 240 wire the same. the voltages are not far enough off for a problem. for 480 you buy a 480 heater, duh.....
KA5PIU
01-25-2011, 11:33 AM
lets see what is necessary for 208 or 240.... nothing cowpie..... 208, 220 and 240 wire the same. the voltages are not far enough off for a problem. for 480 you buy a 480 heater, duh.....
Hello.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split_phase
208 single phase would provide a single voltage, 208 to neutral.
The way it is configured now there is 110 and 220, 110 is used for the motor.
If there were only a single voltage available I would need to derive 110 or replace the motor.
And, no, most motors intended for 220 will not work well on 208, this is only 75% of the power.
Going from 220 to 240 would not be an issue as this is also a dual voltage scheme.
480 3-phase here. I don't mess 'round with no wimpy 120. I can watch my TV from the other room--through the wall.
W3MIV
01-25-2011, 12:24 PM
We have begun to install 240v quartz radiant heaters over the firing points on the pistol range in support of my weekly Tuesday Evening Bullseye League, now in its 26th week of the 2010/2011 season. We don't have three-phase -- we buried a 200-amp cable to the range house last autumn, so we are limited by that amount of power. We did, however, install a huge panel and are now in the process of adding a series of the heaters, each of which draws 8.3 amps.We are planning ten units, each of which will be separately controlled via a low-voltage switch panel inside the range house. The next step after that, likely for next year, will be the addition of heavy plastic wind shields of the type commonly seen in restaurants with outdoor (or, in truth, "semi-outdoor") seating they like to use three or four seasons.
The lighting we are using is a series of 13-watt fluorescent floods, and they have been working very well, though they do require some warm-up during the coldest part of the year.
KC2UGV
01-25-2011, 12:29 PM
I have 120VAC, at 300Hz in my house.
KA5PIU
01-25-2011, 05:56 PM
Hello.
Aircraft have 110 3 phase 400Hz.
Plug a solid state clock in and watch time fly!
Mechanical clocks can not keep up with the frequency.
n2ize
01-26-2011, 04:59 AM
220-221 what ever it takes.
220-221 ? Why bother. I say just hook that sucker right on up to the 7-15 Kv primaries. Then it will throw out some REAL heat. :lol::lol:
w2amr
01-26-2011, 05:33 AM
Hello.
Some have become desperate and have asked if the heaters cvan be repaired.
The vast numbers have this safety circuit that has failed.
The way it has been implemented is to have one device do 2 things, thermostat as well as safety shutoff.
The easy solution is to wire around all of it and leave it on but this can leave it in an unsafe condition.
However the way it has been constructed it can just as easily fail and cause a fire.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZXz1-J-FLI
More imported junk from China.
n2ize
01-26-2011, 05:42 AM
More imported junk from China.
I'd like to start a business making quality products here in America. Unfortunately I'd be filing for bankruptcy in a matter of minutes.
w2amr
01-26-2011, 06:21 AM
I'd like to start a business making quality products here in America. Unfortunately I'd be filing for bankruptcy in a matter of minutes.
Americans don't want quality products. They want cheap junk that will last a couple of months, then gets tossed in the trash.
N4VGB
01-26-2011, 06:25 AM
Americans don't want quality products. They want cheap junk that will last a couple of months, then gets tossed in the trash.
Expect a lot more soon. Obama said in his address that he has signed new trade agreements with China & India that will create a bunch of new jobs in the U.S. Wonder how many more megatons per month of that cheap crap we have to buy now?
w2amr
01-26-2011, 12:43 PM
Expect a lot more soon. Obama said in his address that he has signed new trade agreements with China & India that will create a bunch of new jobs in the U.S. Wonder how many more megatons per month of that cheap crap we have to buy now?Will there be enough dumpsters to keep up?
KA5PIU
01-26-2011, 04:23 PM
Will there be enough dumpsters to keep up?
Hello.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WALL-E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e16U8UsT4I
Replace Buy and Large with Wal-Mart, WALL-E mart, if you will, and you have it.
KG4CGC
02-13-2011, 10:36 PM
another one for
WART
VE7DCW
02-13-2011, 11:23 PM
WART the world is coming to .... :yes:
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