Looking for Classic Style Mic Head

[KA9MOT]

Guys, I'm looking for a cheap, non-working Mic Head. Something rounded like the Astatic 10DA

http://www.rentamic.com/mics/astatic10da.jpg

Can be anything with a similar shape and Chrome Grill.

I know I am dreaming here but one of these would work as well:

Shure 55c

http://www.rentamic.com/mics/shure55c.jpg

Anything like these.

I want to strip it out, pretty it up, fill it with hard plastic (I could use some advice on what kind of plastic) and use it for a shift knob in my truck.

A one of a kind shift knob for the Radio Geek in all of us.

[ki4itv]

As the filling with plastic goes...
You could use polyester resin (casting resin) filled with Pecan shell flour. (fill to a heavy Milkshake like viscosity)
The flour will allow you to tool it like wood, for adding a nut or similar threaded object to screw on the shaft, and dramatically reduce the polyesters desire to shrink as it cures.
Use something like paint or tape to seal the inside so it does not leak (any holes/slits) and then paint the outside visible surfaces a few times with petroleum jelly thinned with Naptha. The Naptha/jelly mix will act as a parting agent and allow you to clean the visible portions of the part after filling the void.

If needed, you can also tint the resin in a complimentary background color or just paint those sections later as the flour filler makes the polyester paint-able too.

I'd be glad to help walk you through it, if you decide to use this or a similar method. I've already made almost every mistake you can possibly make with RTV type products. Might even think of something easier, that's just as robust and bullet proof.

[KG4CGC]

Interesting idea.
I have one of these http://www.shure.com/idc/groups/public/documents/webcontent/us_pro_708a_ug.pdf (give the pdf a chance to load)
It's on an S-38 base. I'd let it go for the right price. It has the original crystal element but since you want to gut it, I could just send an empty head. I know you said "pretty it up." This one has all the original patina. (lol)

[KA9MOT]

That looks like it would work perfectly. What is the "right price"? I don't need the guts, just a complete case. A little red backing in the grill to match the truck, polish up the chrome................Mount it facing up....OH YEAH!

[kd8dey]

10dal
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Astatic-D104-CB-Ham-Radio-Microphone-/260716215286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb3e5bbf6

http://cgi.ebay.com/ASTATIC-DN-HZ-SSB-MIC-HEAD-ALL-ASTATIC-D-104-BASE-/230568969142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aefb43b6

http://cgi.ebay.com/astatic-10-c-head-/140475452507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b4fd4c5b

DN50
http://cgi.ebay.com/Astatic-DN-50-DN50-Mircophone-G-Stand-Base-/300511410751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7e03a3f

T3
http://cgi.ebay.com/Astatic-T3-Harp-Mic-101-Crystal-Element-/230569162954?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aefe38ca

JT30
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Astatic-JT-30-Microphone-/200560714680?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb259a3b8

http://cgi.ebay.com/Astatic-JT-30-Vintage-Microphone-Harp-Mic-Shure-CM99B86-/250749165713?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a61d0a091

MC151
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hohner-BLUE-BULLET-Astatic-MC-151-Crystal-Microphone-/120665763318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c183d6df6

77"Elvis"
http://cgi.ebay.com/Astatic-77-Elvis-style-1950s-Microphone-UNIQUE-/150542804111?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230d0ce48f

MC127
http://cgi.ebay.com/ASTATIC-ARGONNE-MC-127-CERAMIC-ELEMENT-TOGETHER-ONE-/230569535701?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35af03e8d5

[KG4CGC]

That looks like it would work perfectly. What is the "right price"? I don't need the guts, just a complete case. A little red backing in the grill to match the truck, polish up the chrome................Mount it facing up....OH YEAH!
It has the original faded red backing.
PM me.

[KA9MOT]

As the filling with plastic goes...
You could use polyester resin (casting resin) filled with Pecan shell flour. (fill to a heavy Milkshake like viscosity)
The flour will allow you to tool it like wood, for adding a nut or similar threaded object to screw on the shaft, and dramatically reduce the polyesters desire to shrink as it cures.
Use something like paint or tape to seal the inside so it does not leak (any holes/slits) and then paint the outside visible surfaces a few times with petroleum jelly thinned with Naptha. The Naptha/jelly mix will act as a parting agent and allow you to clean the visible portions of the part after filling the void.

If needed, you can also tint the resin in a complimentary background color or just paint those sections later as the flour filler makes the polyester paint-able too.

I'd be glad to help walk you through it, if you decide to use this or a similar method. I've already made almost every mistake you can possibly make with RTV type products. Might even think of something easier, that's just as robust and bullet proof.

Thanks for the info. I did a google search and it seems that I am not the first person to come up with this idea........Also, looking at some of the pictures, it is a cool idea.